Pittsburgh for Slowhand

September 8, 2023 Quick weekend getaway to attend the Eric Clapton concert on Friday night then back home on Sunday.

I’m acutely aware that we’re losing our great rockers — Tom Petty, Glenn Frey, Christine McVie, David Crosby, John Prine, Tina Turner, Jimmy Buffett; too many to name them all. In the next few years we’re likely to lose a lot more so I took this chance to see a legend — Eric Clapton live at the PPG Auditorium in Pittsburgh. This was a first for me to see both Eric and Pittsburgh. Neither disappointed.

After dropping our bags off at the William Penn hotel, we walked to The Point a beautiful state park where three rivers come together marked with this fun water fountain that shoots way up in the air. It was part of an urban renewal project started in the 1950s that cleaned up the blighted, industrial area. The 36-acre park was completed in 1974 and provides the perfect backdrop for the city. The giant football stadium where the Steelers play is just beyond the park. What felt like a blue collar town, was full of team spirit with a home game on Sunday and black & gold everywhere. Truly, almost everyone, young and old, was sporting a Steelers jersey, hat, or something.

The streets were covered in these colorful insects called spotted lanternflies. An invasive species, they have been the target of a campaign called, “If you see it, stomp it.” Even if they destroy a lot of vegetation, I didn’t feel right killing them and I question the whole campaign.

The weather was fine for walking which is my favorite way to get acquainted with a new place. In addition to both live and dead lanternflies, there was an abundance of street art; a vertable panorama of interesting architecture, sculpture and paintings.

Downtown is surrounded by neighborhoods that are in various stages of gentrification, each with its distinctive vibe including Lawrenceville, South Side Flats, and “the strip” where we stopped in Robert Wholey & Co Seafood Market for their renown fish sandwich and crab chowder. Seriously, we walked over 10 miles both Friday and Saturday. No regrets because we saw a lot, enjoyed the beautiful weather, and got a good feel for the city but we missed the Warhol Museum, the Heinz History Center, the Phipps Conservatory & Botanical Gardens, and the Carnegie Cultural Complex. There’s just too much to see it all in a short weekend.

Walking back from the strip, we passed Agnes Katz Plaza, a park with a 25 foot tall bronze fountain and artistic benches that resemble giant eyes.

The concert Friday night did not disappoint. Clapton’s voice is still strong and clear and his band was rocking! With so many hits, he was bound to skip a few (no “Promises” or “Rock ‘n’ Roll Heart”.) There were quite a few acoustic versions instead of electric, like “Layla,” but at 78-years old he delivered a great show. He had me crying when he sang “Tears in Heaven.” A young fan might not know the story behind the song but I remember well when he wrote it (1992) after the tragic death of his 4-year old son, Conor. That’s a big part of the magic behind a concert with someone like Eric Clapton. We’ve shared life for the past forty years. The songs bring back memories and emotions. Everyone was swaying to “Wonderful Tonight” and, no doubt, we all had flashbacks of dancing with someone special to it over the years. Thank you, Eric. Thanks for sharing your talent and making my life richer for it.

A highlight of my trip to Pittsburgh was the unique experience of riding the inclines, 146-year old cable cars that go the short distance up and down a hill just outside of the downtown area. A ride on either the Duquesne or Monogahela is $2,75 each way.

We went up one, walked across the top of the hill, then rode down the other. Quite a few cafes and restaurants have outdoor patios overlooking the river with excellent views of the city. The views by day and night are equally lovely. I highly recommend dinner at sunset on top so you can watch the city light up.

“Virtue, liberty and independence” Pittsburgh

“The whole world loves American movies, blue jeans, jazz and rock and roll. It is probably a better way to get to know our country than by what politicians or airline commercials represent.” Billy Joel

“I feel wonderful because I see the love light in your eyes. And the wonder of it all is that you just don’t realize how much I love you.” Eric Clapton, “Wonderful Tonight” written for Pattie Boyd in 1976 while waiting for her to get ready to attend Paul McCartney’s annual Buddy Holly party.