Life Elevated: Southern Utah and Arches National Park

Moab, Utah is a town of about 5,000 people. This is ground zero for Arches National Park which is just 5 miles north. The town of Moab seems touristy and a bit shabby as if it was built in the 40’s and never evolved. Surprisingly, the first night I enjoyed a gourmet dinner, thanks to my wonderful travel companion who found a solid four star restaurant, Desert Bistro (desertbistro.com), and made reservations well in advance. The town is focused on outdoor adventures with countless oufitters offering tours by bicycle, raft, jeep, and whatever else you might want. Impressively, Moab has an airport (Canyonlands Regional Airport, CNY) with commercial flights by SkyWest/United non-stop to Denver (just $138 one-way).

On my only full day in Utah I spent more than 10 hours in Arches National Park with no breaks, stopping at countless formations and overlooks; hiking trails to discover hidden wonders of nature at all turns.

There are over 2,000 arches in the 76,518 park acres so I definitely did not see them all.

Each arch is unique and amazing in its own way. And, as you can see from the pictures, there is easy access to most by way of well-tended trails or paths.

In addition to arches, there are interesting rock formations like this one appropriately called “balanced rock”.

Famous for the picture on the Utah license plate, a hike to the top of Delicate Arch (3 miles) seemed mandatory. How could you visit Arches and miss this famous formation? It’s a moderately difficult hike but near the end it narrows for about 500 yards to a ledge that made me quite nervous. When I made the last turn it opened up to this amazing view! Somehow, the way down is always easier than the way up; perhaps, because I’m refreshed by the experience or, since I’ve passed through once, I know what to expect and I’m pretty sure I’m not going to fall to a sudden death.

Eager to find just the right spot from which to watch the sunset, we considered several then settled on the Windows section.

The official sunset was at about 8:30 but we stayed another hour to see the beautiful colors in the sky and the dimming light reflecting off the rocks.

As was typical in Sedona, there was a bridal party with a professional photographer taking pictures in the golden hour. Atypical of Sedona, I didn’t see anyone meditating or doing yoga. The tourists were numerous and loud. I suspect these same people must hit up the Grand Canyon and Disneyland but skip Sedona.

After sunset we moved to an area with a better view toward the east to watch the Flower Blood moon rise; the biggest moon of the year! Clouds partially obscured our view but we sat quietly snacking on trail mix and enjoying the celestrial show.

Regrettably, I had no time to visit Canyonlands so that will require another trip to Utah. Going south from Moab I drove through some of the most beautiful land I’ve ever seen. Fortunately, I was alone and had all day to make the relatively short drive back to Sedona (350 miles) so I stopped many times. Passing through Monument Valley and Valley of the Gods, confirmed that I must return to spend more time in this gorgeous territory.

The natural beauty seems amplified by the lack of toruists. Yes, I note the hypocrisy because I am not a native myself but it’s easier to absorb the experience when there aren’t distractions. The desert is naturally a quiet place. To fully appreciate it, I need quiet also.

Sand Island with historic petroglyphs is only a short distance off the main road just south of Bluff. I saw pictures of animals, hand prints, hunters and Kokopelli playing a flute on the rock wall that stretches approximately 100 yards. It’s estimated that the drawings are between 800 and 2,500 years old. It was fenced off so I couldn’t get too close and this photo isn’t wonderful but, hopefully, you can see some of the designs.

One of the most noteworthy stops on the drive south was Goosenecks State Park. This picture shows only one section of the three turns in graceful succession approximately 1,000 feet below where I was standing. Geologists say the history of rock layers exposed by the meandering San Juan River covers 300 million years.

The swirling formations are unbelievably beautiful and there were only a few people at the park so I lingered to enjoy it extra for all those who missed it. There’s no drinking water or other facilities but it’s available for primitive camping for just $10 per night.

There were a couple Native Americans selling hand-made jewelry in the park with whom I enjoyed talking. They were brother and sister. The woman made bracelets and necklaces and shared with me her pride in having 11 children. Her brother explained the arrowhead necklaces he makes and how he teaches survival skills to at-risk youth. He pointed out the plateau in the distance and told me stargazing from the top is amazing. I can only imagine sleeping under the stars on the plateau and, hopefully, I will return some day soon to do so. There is no hotel that can compare to sleeping under a sky full of stars.

Another interesting spot was Mexican Hat (that’s the name of the rock formation and also the name of the town; population 31).  I saw only two people here during my stop and hike. It seems this highway through Native American reservations is used primarily as a throughway and not so much as stopping points.

Further south on Route 163 there’s a spot where a scene in “Forrest Gump” was filmed. A sign on the side of the road states that this is where Forrest stopped running. After 3 years, 2 months, 14 days, and 16 hours, Forrest reached this beautiful spot in Monument Valley and said, “I’m pretty tired … think I’ll go home now.” Seems right. No need to run further. It’s peaceful and accepting in all ways; life and the environment are in perfect harmony.  

Most of the drive from Moab to the Arizona boarder is through Native American territory. There is no cell service and very few commercial facilities of any kind. Fortunately, I had water and a paper map so I could determine my location and know how much time I had for stops and detours. To be fair, the Navajo Nation was hit hard by COVID-19 so there were strict masking requirements at the few places that were open. This sign advertises one of the sparse accommodations – a yurt park. Perfect!

I passed this elegant sandstone arch when driving south on Hwy 191. Of course, I stopped and hiked in a ways in a ways. Imagine so much beauty at every turn!

I’ve been home two days but half my heart is still out West in the beautiful deserts and park lands. A new friend from Sedona called early this morning (7:30 AM my time, 4:30 AM his time). It seems he sets off the hot air balloons every morning. Wow! Now I have another reason to go back. I need to see hot air balloons lifting off over the red rocks of Sedona at sunrise.

“In wisdom gained over time I have found that every experience is a form of exploration.” Ansel Adams

“Never allow waiting to become a habit. Live your dreams and take risks. Life is happening now.” Paulo Coelho

“To be yourself in a world that is constantly trying to make you something else is the greatest accomplishment.” Ralph Waldo Emerson