Charleston, Hilton Head Island and Kiawah Island, SC

Charleston, SC is the perfect get-away. It holds charm of days before technology –tree-lined streets, interesting architecture, historical importance, and some of the best cuisine in the country.

It’s been 7 months since my last trip. COVID-19 kept me inside all spring and socially isolated all summer. Now, it’s September and we’re still being careful to avoid dangerous situations but it’s time for a road trip; hand-sanitizer, mask and all. Charleston is an easy 7-hour drive from home (Virginia Beach, VA, USA) and I’ve never visited the SC barrier islands so it seems a worthy destination. Our plan was to spent two nights in Charleston, two nights in Hilton Head and two nights on Kiawah Island.

By 8:00 AM Saturday morning (9/12/2020) my girlfriend and I were in the car. By 9:00 AM we were out of Virginia and into North Carolina.

Even with a lunch break, we rolled in to Charleston about 3:30 PM. Our hotel, the Francis Marion, was in the historic area, convenient to walking everywhere, and our room overlooked this beautiful park and the waterfront.

We dropped our bags off and headed out for a stroll. By 5:00 PM we were ready for happy hour, Charleston-style, with steamed oysters and sangria at Pearlz, one of the many small cafes. I never saw mint julep on the menu but there were versions of mojitos that may have replaced the iconic Southern cocktail.

Time to walk back to our hotel, shower, and change for an elegant dinner at Circa 1886 at the Wentworth Mansion.

Day Two, Sunday–We walked about 12 miles up and down the beautiful streets of historic Charleston. The architecture with window boxes and second floor balconies give it a New Orleans aura.

Strolling along, peeking into courtyards, and exploring alleys was truly my favorite activity in Charleston. Our first destination of the day was the pineapple fountain in Waterfront Park.

The walk from the fountain down to the Battery is lined with giant oak trees and tends to transform those strolling back two hundred years in time.

It’s important to remember that life was not good for everyone back in the day. Charleston was a major port for slaves arriving from Africa. The lovely plantations and booming economy were created through the ownership and trade of human lives. And, while the business of slavery ended 157 years ago, its effects are still present. Arriving at White Point Gardens we saw a demonstration with Confederate flags. The racial division in America is very much an important social and political issue today.

Rainbow Row runs parallel to the water on East Bay Street and boasts 13 pastel-colored Georgian townhomes.

No trip to Charleston is complete without a walk through the market. We bought several small items custom greeting cards and fresh spices but my favorite was something I’ve wanted for many years — a beautiful print by Jonathan Green, nationally acclaimed artist from SC. On our walk back to the hotel, we decided to go through the beautiful Belmond Charleston Place hotel to admire the chandelier and flowers and to take some daytime pictures of the magnificent horse sculpture at the back entrance. Imagine my delight when I spotted Jonathan sitting in the lounge! Having had the opportunity to meet Jonathan previously, I hesitantly approached him to say “hello” and show him the print I had just bought. In characteristic fashion, Jonathan graciously greeted me, shared a happy memory of our dancing at our friends’ wedding, and posed for this picture. What a great artist, awesome humanitarian and generally, warm person; plus, a great dinner companion and dancer!

Time to shower and dress for brunch at the renowned Magnolias. Hands down, they serve the best fried green tomatoes I’ve ever tasted!

I don’t remember seeing a town with more churches. Each has its own style and some boast graves of famous people (John C. Calhoun, U.S. Senator and Vice President; Edward Rutledge, signer of the Declaration of Independence; Charles Pinckney, signer of the U. S. Constitution).

It’s hard to find a fitting end for such a great day but, after a couple failed attempts, we found a rooftop bar with a beautiful view of the sunset. I recommend a visit to the Vendue rooftop at sunset or after dark. When COVID-19 restrictions end and people are allowed to gather again it will be lively with music and laughter. For us it was peaceful and quite beautiful. From the rooftop, I took this picture of one of the many regal, church steeples just after sunset.

As if the day wasn’t full enough, we made one last stop at “Henry’s on the Market” where talented performers were offering a heavy dose of country interspersed with a little John Prine and folk music. Henry’s contends their rooftop lounge offers the best sunset view but that will have to wait for another trip to be tested.

Monday morning we drove out of Charleston headed for Hilton Head Island. A barrier island in Beaufort County, Hilton Head is 20 miles northeast of Savannah and 95 miles southwest of Charleston; about 12 miles long with one main road and offsets named for former plantations. Our hotel was on Shipyard in the southend of the island (about 800 acres with a Property Owners’ Association). It’s a 2 1/2 hour drive through scenic undeveloped, low-lying ground from Charleston. Hilton Head isn’t cheap but there are many hotels so the rates are quite reasonable. We stayed at the Sonesta Resort which is right on the beach for about $185/night.

First stop, lunch by the pool. My sweet friend and travel companion brought us frozen drinks to set the mood.

After a lazy day by the pool and beach, we enjoyed a very delicious dinner served by Linda, the owner of Alfred’s, a fine dining restaurant hidden in the back of an unassuming shopping strip. We’ve been really fortunate to find outdoor dining. Everywhere we go we find small business owners creating virus-safe options and they seem to appreciate their customers as much as we appreciate their efforts to stay open in difficult times.

Tuesday was spent off the beach visiting several of the nature reserves.

We took a picnic to enjoy at the Coastal Discovery Museum. There were very few people there with many acres to enjoy. The butterflies and hanging moss add such beauty to the wetlands. Supposedly, there are alligators all around, and I don’t doubt it, but we didn’t see any.

The Pinckney Island National Wildlife Refuge is pure nature with some information posts but no museum or other features. Like everywhere, it’s all flat and is perfect for a long hike or a bike ride.

No visit to Hilton Head would be complete without stopping by one or more golf course. My travel companion golfs so I got to enjoy the clubhouse and beautiful landscaping while she hit a bucket of balls.

While traveling it’s always great to talk with locals. We were fortunate that my travel companion knows someone in the area who joined us for another lovely dinner–this time at Ela’s On the Water which sits on a marina.

There’s no question that Hilton Head is a destination for the wealthy. There are signs of money all around. For example, the yachts at the marina were much bigger than what I’m used to seeing in Virginia Beach.

Wednesday morning–We’ve been so fortunate to have good weather in spite of Hurricane Sally coming up from Alabama. We took some time for one more bicycle ride before leaving Hilton Head Island. Perhaps we were pushing our luck because we got soaked on the ride back to the hotel. Next stop, Kiawah Island, another of the SC barrier islands. Named after the first inhabitants, the island has been occupied by Native Indians, pirates, plantation owners & enslaved people, lumberman, Kuwaiti investors, and now super wealthy islanders. The homes are amazing! It really makes you wonder where so much money comes from. Even the landscaping along the road leading to the Sanctuary and out to the Ryder Cup Grill by the Oceans Course 18th hole is gorgeous. Thanks to all those who suggested we go for dinner there.

The Ocean Course offers 10 seaside holes, more than any course in the Northern Hemisphere. Home of a former Ryder Cup tournament, it will host the PGA Championship in 2021 for the second time.

Sitting outside by the 18th hole with a clear view of the ocean made the Atlantic and Ryder Cup restaurants my favorite, but I’m glad we went to the Sanctuary for dinner in their fine dining Ocean Room one evening.

This was one of the very few times we dined inside but I didn’t feel at high risk for COVID-19 germs. Temperatures were taken, masks were worn by all wait-staff and patrons unless they were seated. Generally, as much precaution as possible was taken everywhere we went.

As they say, all good things must come to an end. Back home, I hung my treasured, new artwork that will serve as a reminder of South Carolina.

“Once you have travelled, the voyage never ends, but is played out over and over again in the quietest chambers. The mind can never break off from the journey.” Pat Conroy (American author who lived in the SC barrier islands)

“It’s a matter of common knowledge that the government of South Carolina is under domination of a small ring of cunning, conniving men.” Strom Thurmond (U.S. Senator from SC for 48 years from 1924-1964)