South Florida for a Long Weekend

It’s February and cold in Virginia so when I got an invitation to meet Naomi in Miami for her nephew’s wedding, I bought a cheap, non-stop ticket. It was too easy to contemplate for more than a moment.

My one day & night in Miami Beach were terrific fun. The restaurants and clubs on Collins and Ocean Drive are legendary. Sitting at a cafe for dinner, watching people and cars passing, is very entertaining. We went in several clubs, most of which charged little or no cover. Mango’s is still absolutely crazy with dancers on the bars and three separate areas for dancing. It’s been a while since I stayed out after 2 AM but the wedding reception and after-party were too fun to leave.  Still, we set our clocks and got up to watch the sunrise over beautiful South Beach. It was definitely worth getting out of bed for. The city is very diverse with a heavy Hispanic influence but, truly, international. After delicious coffee and pastries, we jumped in our rental car, put the top down, and headed south. As soon as we made it out of town, leaving the buildings, traffic, and noise behind, the entire mood changed. The densely developed landscape changed to small, pastel cottages with mom & pop businesses along the highway. Since the keys are a chain of small islands, we frequently got to a bridge with ample parking to pull over to fish or check out the water. 

It’s an easy, picturesque drive to Key West. We ate almost every meal outdoors, usually with a view of the water but always with palm trees. The Banana Cafe was an exception to outdoor dining but the crepes are worth it. We stayed at Margaritaville Resort which is over-priced but right where we wanted to be, beside Mallory Square. Every evening at sunset the square and waterfront are lined with people soaking up the natural beauty and looking for the (alleged) green flash. There were always a lot boats making sunset cruises but we preferred the square. At least, that’s what we said since no one offered to take us on their boat 🙂 

Mallory Square has a carnival atmosphere with entertainers (gymnasts, fire jugglers, musicians), good food, and small stands selling jewelry and crafts.

We toured Ernest Hemingway’s house, studio, and grounds complete with dozens of six-toed Hemingway cats. They have excellent guides so it was well worth the small entrance fee. Everywhere is an easy walk–there was no need to ever move our car out of the garage. A short walk down the road takes you to the lighthouse and the southernmost point in the continental USA. 

Next morning we jumped on a ferry to Dry Tortugas National Park with Fort Jefferson and gorgeous beaches. It would be great to take a tent next time and camp out for a few days which is completely possible, even encouraged. I know this looks photoshopped but it’s a straight up iPhone pix with no filter.

We ate and drank well–everything from gourmet meals and Cuban coffee to fish tacos and margaritas. I saved room for a piece of the legendary Key Lime Pie that didn’t disappoint.

At night we walked Duval Street and stopped in cafes to hear live music. There was never a cover and the music was always good–classic rock, country, contemporary, and original. Of course, we popped in to Sloppy Joe’s (Hemingway’s bar) and Captain Tony’s (oldest bar in town and the original site of Sloppy Joe’s). We enjoyed a lot of singing, dancing, and laughing. Everywhere we went we met cool people. The Jimmy Buffett vibe rules. I heard no words of anger or stress the entire time I was in the keys with one exception. I walked by a television over the poolside bar and saw my own governor apologizing for an old picture of him in blackface standing beside someone in a KKK robe. What a sharp contrast to the laid-back, peace & love atmosphere. I was not looking forward to returning to Virginia and the so-called “real world” of cold weather, ugly politics, and deadlines. Honestly, it was hard to leave Key West and head north but Ft. Lauderdale has its own charm and is very nice, albeit less relaxed, so I focused on the beauty of the moment and stayed away from televisions. 

Our last day, after another great lunch at an oceanside cafe, I left Naomi in Ft. Lauderdale to catch her non-stop flight to Baltimore then I drove to Coral Gables for dinner with the birthday girl, Lyssett, on the Miracle Mile.   Nearby MIA is huge so returning the rental car and getting to my gate took a while. Asking for directions wasn’t helpful because I don’t speak Spanish and that’s the dominant language at the airport. The rental convertible Mustang was perfect for the weekend and so fun that I’m seriously thinking about checking it out for price and reliability.

Alas, all good things must come to an end. I took a direct flight home and was back in my own bed by 1:00 AM.

“Yeah, they’re freezin’ up in Buffalo stuck in their cars
And I’m lyin’ here ‘neath the sun and the stars.”

“Please don’t say manana if you don’t mean it
I have heard those words for so very long
Don’t try to describe the ocean if you’ve never seen it
Don’t ever forget that you just may wind up being wrong.”

Jimmy Buffett, Manana