Vienna–Architecture

Vienna is an explosion of beauty. Look in any direction, and you’ll see architectural grandeur in bold, Roman columns, Gothic arches and steeples, detailed frescoes, mosaics and baroque gilding. The styles span the last five centuries but the beautiful, light colored stone is a uniting element. Upon arriving in Vienna last Sunday morning, I was privileged to attend a mass at St. Augustine’s Cathedral. The beauty of the building, inside and out, was matched by the ceremony of the service complete with a magnificent organ and choir.

St. Andrew’s twin spires and mosaic roof create a reference point as they can frequently be seen towering over the city. I passed on the opportunity to go below the church to the Imperial Crypt but it’s a common tourist site that I hope to visit next time I’m in Vienna. Every building has a story. For example, in 1714 St. Charles Church (Karlskirche) was commissioned by Emperor Charles VI to honor the saint of plague sufferers at the end of the plague that killed more than 8,000 people. Building materials and funds to erect the cathedral were gathered from all over the Habsburg Empire—Sardinia, Italy, Hungary and more. It took two years to plan the church then twenty years to complete the construction. In each of the six side chapels there are paintings of Jesus, always wearing a red robe with a blue drape, healing the sick or performing miracles. It’s difficult to imagine how it could have been designed or built without computers, cranes, and modern tools yet it was constructed so well that it stands today. A picture of Karlskirche is below. 

Not to be overshadowed by Vienna’s large cathedrals, the outlying towns have very beautiful churches, also. The one pictured below is in Baden and I was fortunate to visit it on Palm Sunday. The statue out front is in memory of those lost in wars.Another small town I visited, Eisenstadt, is the home of Haydn, and has two lovely churches, one of which houses his tomb. Many of the churches had music written for and originally performed during special masses by the great composers. 

Looking down from the Vienna Woods on the edge of Baden gives a good view of the typical countryside where each village has one or two tall steeples indicating the churches. Government buildings, museums and performing arts halls in Vienna are almost as grand as the cathedrals. Trying to get a good picture of the State Opera House was almost impossible because it’s so large. In fact, all of my pictures pale in comparison to reality. Walking the streets you’ll notice mounted signs telling the history of a particular building generally including the date is was built, when it was renovated, and if anything important happened at that site such as an artist or a composer lived there. The dates remind me how young the United States is. It’s not uncommon to see buildings erected in the 14th century still in full use today. One former royal palace has been converted to residential condominiums. Ducking down side alleys and in through open doors to take a look can yield unexpected splendor. This stairway is in a commercial office building housing an auction business.And, the beauty is not found just by day. At night the same buildings take on a magical aura; especially, if you’re as lucky as I was to see them by a full moon.Then there are the palaces. One of my favorite was the Schonbrunn Palace, the summer home of Maria Theresa, her husband, and their sixteen children, high on a hill with a compelling view of Vienna below. Painted in her characteristic deep yellow, it’s both elegant and grand. (Side Note: Never underestimate a woman! Emperor Charles VI died when his daughter, Maria Theresa, was 23. There being no sons, she was next in line to rule the House of Habsburg but she was not expected to retain control, given that she was a woman. The position made her the absolute sovereign of Austria, Hungary, Croatia, Bohemia, Transylvania, Mantua, Milan, Lodomeria and Galicia, the Austrian Netherlands and Parma. During her 40-year reign she earned respect and admiration, escorted in economic and education reform including school for girls, ended discrimination against Jews, and ruled with advice from wise counsel. She married off the 10 of her 16 children who reached adulthood, including Marie Antoinette, to positions that strengthened Austria’s standing giving her the nickname of Europe’s mother-in-law. Even after her sons reached adulthood and she was expected to cede to Francis and Joseph, she kept a strong hold on her position preferring to share power but not relinquish it thereby setting a succession plan in place.)Getting to the palace is an easy trip just outside the city and would be perfect for an afternoon picnic if the weather is nice. To be fair, it’s easy to get almost everywhere. The public transportation system of underground, streetcars, buses and trains is inexpensive, efficient and convenient. There are bike paths all over the city and some of the main streets are pedestrian-only.  Climbing the many steps to the highest point of the back lawn to enjoy the view and take this picture reminds me why it’s important to travel now while I have strong legs.

“I must study politics and war that my sons may have liberty to study mathematics and philosophy. My sons ought to study mathematics and philosophy, geography, natural history, naval architecture, navigation, commerce, and agriculture, in order to give their children a right to study painting, poetry, music, architecture, statuary, tapestry, and porcelain.” John Adams (1735 – 1826)