Chiang Mai, Thailand

Reaching the North was like breathing fresh air, both figuratively and literally. We took a two-hour flight from Phuket and arrived on the afternoon of Christmas. After checking in to an Airbnb, we walked about a kilometer to the old city.

There was an open market set up and countless temples/monasteries in every direction. We paid a couple dollars for a ride back on a tuk-tuk, a three-wheeled motorcycle cab. These little tuk-tuks have replaced bicycle drawn rickshaws and are an easy alternative for a short distance ride. The little red trucks into which you jump in the back and sit on a bench are the most economical and easiest way to go more than a few blocks. We never paid more than 20 Thai Badt per person (about 55 cents).

My dear friend, Nee, picked us up for a traditional Christmas dinner with some of her nephews. The young men were raised and educated in the United States or England but, it’s clear, they respect their Asian culture as evidenced by the fact that they all came home to spend time with their 95-year old grandmother when her health began failing. Our host is Pauranee Chaisiri (Nee), whom I met in college in the 70’s. Although a very humble person, her family is well known due to her father, General Lee, who left Yuan (south of China) during the communist revolution, formed an army, walked through Burma to northern Thailand and liberated the land from communist hold. (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Santikhiri) There is a monument to General Lee with his tomb that tells the history of his military victories and kindness to his soldiers.

Nee now operates a restaurant on the site in Thom-Ngob where General Lee’s headquarters was and she lives in his old quarters when she’s in town. The restaurant serves delicious Yuanese-style food including puffy, rice buns and savory pork barbecue. The food is prepared by locals in giant pots on open fires in back of the dining area.

This land was settled when her father purchased it (early 80’s) and gave small plots to approximately 600 soldiers and their families. Now many of Nee’s friends and employees are the soldiers’ children. He oversaw 36 villages but this area seems extra special since it was his headquarters and is on the highest elevation. The flat area at the compound was leveled by 100 soldiers with hand-shovels. Most all the rest of the land is steep with houses precariously balanced on the side of the road. The single road connecting villages is paved now but Nee remembers taking a six-hour ride on horseback to visit her father when she was younger.

After lunch we drove farther north to the Royal Projects, an area of agricultural experimentation, botanical gardens, orchards, camp sites, cabins and cafe. This is part of the product of government efforts to close down the golden triangle opium trade among Thailand, Burma/Myanmar and Laos by providing locals with alternative crops and income.

On our second full day, we fought traffic delays due to the royal family traveling in the area but, thanks to our local driver who knows back streets, we managed to stay on schedule. We had to be very careful when discussing the royal family. It seems the late king was well loved for his 70-year reign. The new king, now 64 and on his fourth marriage, does not share his father’s popularity, however, it’s an official crime to criticize the royal family.

No trip to Chiang Mai is complete without a short visit to its most significant temple, Doi Suthep.

Located way up at the top of a hill, it offers panoramic views of the city below. We went up by van; passing those hiking or bicycling up did not make me jealous. The huge staircase leading to the temple has long, dragon banisters of bright yellow with green and red. At the top, there’s so much gold everywhere that it’s practically blinding.

Needing to get out of the van and do something a bit more physical, we headed to what’s known as the Grand Canyon of Chiang Mai. I’m not sure if it started as a natural crater or is the result of mining but it’s quite impressive and provided several hours of cliff jumping & diving, swimming, and fun for the tiny entrance fee of 50 Thai     ($1.50 US)

We finished our second day in Chiang Mai with a visit to the Night Safari where we saw lions, tigers, porcupines and a wide array of animals that are nocturnal. There’s a combination of shows, tram rides and walking circuits and we sampled all three. The shows weren’t trained animal tricks but rather just narrated displays of wild animals coming onto the stage area to grab food then return to their confinements. The exhibits were all very natural and well designed in the style of modern zoos. There weren’t many people walking so we felt like we had the park to ourselves. Plus, there were a fair number of animals and birds (rabbits, miniature horses, turtles, peacocks) just walking around in the dark which it made it very fun. This was one of the few activities that had an entrance fee (about $25 US) but the price was quite reasonable and the time was well spent.

Most nights our evening activity was a delicious Thai dinner and family time. We never tired of the tasty curries and rice. Andrew thought the food could have been spicier and he suspected it was because he was clearly not a local. It was plenty spicy for me. Even the papaya salad had chili peppers in it.

We often got take-out and relaxed at our Airbnb home playing games or watching a movie. Each morning we were up early to begin another day of exploration and good Thai food.