Kathryn Byler, blog

Back on the road at 6:30 AM we drove out of Texas with this magnificent sunrise at our backs and New Mexico welcoming us.The drive across I40 is straight and easy, running parallel to the iconic Route 66, so we jumped on and off the interstate whenever we wanted a break. Lunch at one of the many Mexican cantinas was delicious. Free sopapillas and honey! This must be how people feel when they come south and get free hushpuppies and cornbread.  Shortly after lunch, we crossed into Arizona. It’s impossible to choose one state as the most beautiful but Arizona is really majestic. I so wish we had time to go hiking in Sedona. There’s something wonderful about climbing on red rocks. Flagstaff was delightful! Home of Northern Arizona University, it’s full of cool, coffee shops, live music, and a progressive atmosphere. Train tracks and Route 66 go through the middle of town giving it an eclectic mix of retro and contemporary. I’d enjoy spending a few days here before hitting the fast pace of Los Angeles but one night is all we can give it.  On to California tomorrow…

We rolled out of Little Rock about 6:30 AM and continued west on I40. That put us at Oklahoma City a little before noon with time to visit the memorial site of the Murrah Federal Building bombing.
Daniel was only 3 when his father rushed to OKC with FEMA on April 19, 1995. He knew his father designed the support system to keep the building from falling on the rescue workers as they retrieved the bodies of the 168 people killed at the explosion. Standing at the beautiful park with a heavy heart, we saw the field of empty chairs–each one with the name of a victim. It was so emotional seeing the little chairs representing the children lost.Over the gate is inscribed, “We come here to remember those who were killed, those who survived and those changed forever. May all who leave here know the impact of violence. May this memorial offer comfort, strength, peace, hope and serenity.”

Back on the highway for a few hours, we drove through Indian territory–Cherokee, Cheyenne, Apache, Arapaho, and Caddo Nations. Except for the typical gas stations, fast food restaurants, and occasional casino, there are very few buildings and nothing to block the view. You can see for miles and miles in every direction…blue skies, puffy clouds and open fields. We stopped in Amarillo, Texas for the night with just 15 hours left to Los Angeles. 

8/17/16

Saying goodbye to your sweet, 90-year old grandmom when you’re headed 3,000 miles away and have no idea when you’ll be back can’t be easy. I had a trial in VB General District Court in the morning so Daniel and I left VB at 1:30 PM. (Happy to report that the good guys prevailed, once again.) Loading up the Harley again went well. We’re getting good at this.

The beautiful drive through the Blue Ridge Mountains on Interstates 64 & 81 never gets old. About 8:00 PM a hard rain blocked visibility so we stopped for the night just short of Bristol and the TN border. Back on the road at 7:00 AM, we cruised past Knoxville, Nashville and Memphis then into Arkansas. It was a good day driving through Tennessee and we made up for the late start yesterday. We stopped in Little Rock, Arkansas for the night. There are 24 hours remaining  (if you believe our GPS system) so that’s three solid 8-hour days. If all goes well, we’ll arrive in Los Angeles Saturday afternoon.

Saturday 7/9/16

Beckley, WV to Virginia Beach, VA

Lots of hours on the road combined with losing another hour due to time zones made getting up this morning difficult. It seemed like my sluggish body was matched by an altered reality. Leaving the hotel we noticed a giant tree had fallen in the storm last night. We were fortunate to have missed the heavy wind and rain but several hotels we stopped at either had no power or were full due to the impact of the surrounding areas with no electricity. Leaving Beckley and driving over the beautiful New River Gorge brought back memories of white water rafting trips. It was the longest single-span bridge for many years. The bridge is absolutely gorgeous any time of year; perhaps, most beautiful on “Bridge Day” (third Saturday in October) when it’s open for rappelling and BASE jumping.

We drove a couple exits then pulled off for coffee at White Sulphur Springs near the famous Greenbrier resort but we were very surprised that the McDonalds was closed. The gas station was open but strangely, no coffee! When did we leave civilized America? The clerk explained that the entire area had been 5 feet under water recently. The water isn’t safe to drink, thus, no coffee. Everything had been closed down and the refrigerated displays had all gone out. They had just re-opened when the storm hit the night before bringing a 5-hour power outage and damaged machinery again. 

The drive through the Blue Ridge Mountains, into Virginia and across the Shenandoah Valley felt like coming home in every sense. As beautiful as each part of the United States is for its unique qualities, there are few places that rival the natural beauty of Virginia. No doubt, a sense of familiarity adds to my love of this great Commonwealth. I could almost feel the serenity of Humpback Rocks and Jones River Run as we passed nearby but there was no time to stop for a hike.

Four months after we packed up the Harley and headed west, we safely unloaded back where we started. We couldn’t have asked for a better travel vehicle than the Toyota 4-Runner. And, there are very few things we’d do differently if given the opportunity. Adjusting to the “real world” is always a bit difficult. How can it be that a routine of repetitive interactions and activities is more real than new experiences? Perhaps it’s my desire to appreciate whatever I have at the moment, but as I write this, I think a combination of routine and adventure offers me the most fulfillment. Just as a combination of giving and receiving, work and play, old and new is better than either apart from the other.

A new day begins with the sun rising over the Atlantic Ocean and I’m happy to be home in our little condo but I wouldn’t have missed this trip for anything.  

We passed through (or almost touched) seven states today. We woke up in Kansas City, which is part in Kansas and part in Missouri. We drove across Missouri to St. Louis where we saw the famed Archway to the West.Across the mighty Mississippi River, we entered Illinois. We stopped for lunch in Nashville, a little town of 3,148. That’s right–there’s a Nashville, Illinois as well as a Paris, Naples, Camden, Detroit, Florence, Albany, Arlington, and Topeka, Illinois…so confusing.  Like most places, we enjoyed good food and good people. The owner laughed at my vegetarian diet but was happy to accommodate with mac & cheese, cole slaw and flowers. From Illinois we entered Indiana and drove up to branch of the Ohio River, where we came to the intersection of Indiana, Ohio and Kentucky. I was very impressed with the natural beauty of Kentucky. The lush green hills of Lexington with all the horse farms were especially beautiful. From Kentucky we entered West Virginia where we decided to stay the night. Chalk up another state capitol–Charleston, WV. This was probably our longest driving day but it went well. The weather has been consistently nice and the company is always excellent.

7/7/16  We spent the majority of the day driving through Nebraska and looking at green fields. We passed through a tiny bit of Iowa then into Missouri. As we drove further south the corn seemed to be taller but the scenery was still all green with almost no diversity except, perhaps, not so flat. Driving into Kansas City was exciting because it was a huge change of scenery…almost like a mirage on the horizon.We’re quite impressed with the city. There are performing arts centers and sports arenas all over.  A lot people were walking down side streets decorated with lights creating a festive atmosphere. 

While we were dining at a sidewalk cafe, we heard music nearby and were told it’s part of the “Hot Thursday Nights” series of free country music concerts so we walked over and watched the Chris Jason show. “I know what they say, money can’t buy everything, well, maybe so, but it could buy me a boat.” He was all about family and faith and played well to the packed crowd in the outdoor venue. It seems the Kansas City is full of all types of life–culture, business, sports, and creativity. It could be fun to stay for a couple more days but we’ll be long gone by this time tomorrow.

************

I need to sleep but I can’t. My heart is so sad that our beautiful country is plagued with racism, violence and hatred. Earlier today we heard the tragic news of the police officer shooting and killing the cafeteria worker as he was buckled in his seat belt, reaching for his identification. Daniel is rightfully appalled. He can’t fathom how something so horrible could happen, yet again, and he says so simply, “People come in different colors.” He suggests the problem lies in old prejudices that will die off with my generation. I thought the same when I was his age but somehow, racial prejudice is still here.

The late news of sniper shootings in Dallas with 4 police officers dead only makes things worse. I have no answers. America needs justice for all but we also need peace, love, and understanding. Our social problems are great. We must do better.

We spent the morning in Salt Lake City. The Mormon Temple is the focal point of downtown. The gold statue on top represents an angel heralding the return of Jesus Christ to earth.

No doubt, nearby Park City, Snowbird and winter sports dominate with an influx of skiers from November through April. But things were awfully quiet for a major city this morning. Even during rush hour there were very few cars and not many riders on the light rail trains.

We had a short day of driving (about six and a half hours) through Utah and into Wyoming…so much land, so few structures of any kind. Cue the Dixie Chicks, “Wide Open Spaces.”  It took us a while to figure out why there were fences about 30 yards long at random angles in the fields near the highway. Apparently, they’re designed to stop snow drifts from blowing onto the interstate. It was a lovely day with no unusual weather but crazy winds whipped around us. There were caution signs advising of gusts up to 35 mph and a lot of road construction that required single-lane or detours. Basically, we had to pay close attention at all times.

Welcome to Cheyenne, Wyoming, home of Frontier Days, a week-long rodeo every July. The city is gearing up for madness next week.These boots are all over the city with different artwork on each one–like the mermaids in Norfolk. Cheyenne is the fourth capitol we’ve been in or driven through …

• Sacramento, CA
• Carson City, NV
• Salt Lake City, UT
• Cheyenne, WY

Fourth of July 2016

What a beautiful country … God bless America!

Sonoma and Napa vineyards announce that you’re in the heart of California wine country. Signs for wine tastings are everywhere. There was an old-fashioned parade around Sonoma Town Square with thousands of happy spectators and lots of hotdogs. Unlike the cold, foggy weather across the bay, the valley is sunny and hot. We stopped at Sebastiani Vineyards but didn’t take the whole tour.

Back on the road, it was about a 4-hour drive to Lake Tahoe where we spent the night on the California/Nevada border. The town seems geared for skiing in the winter and lake sports in the summer with gaming on the NV side year-round.  We sat at one of the many outdoor cafes and listened to live music, enjoying the warm weather and holiday mood. After dark (about 10 PM) there was a big fireworks display for Independence Day. The days are really long here and it doesn’t get dark until after 9:00 which tells me we’re significantly further north than Virginia Beach. Driving from Lake Tahoe to Salt Lake City was evidence that America still has a lot of undeveloped land. We passed mile after mile of brown hills with an occasional house and some green vegetation near a creek. The closest neighbor would be miles away. There were even no gas stations for long stretches. As soon as we got to the Utah border, we noticed the salt flats on both sides of the highway. How odd to see acres of white ground when it’s 85 degrees.

After about 9 hours, we arrived in Salt Lake City so we parked the vehicle and headed out to walk around Temple Square. The temple is closed to the public but there were bridal couples all around having their pictures taken. Volunteers are happy to provide tours and assistance. A young woman explained that the building in the picture below is the Tabernacle. It’s where the famous Mormon Tabernacle Choir performs when they’re in town but they’re currently touring in Europe.There are about 5 or 6 other buildings with various purposes. One is a memorial to Joseph Smith and another is a welcome center. A large high-rise is for management/operations.

The city seems clean and safe and everyone’s friendly. There were hardly any people on the streets after dark although we saw two professional basketball players from the Utah Jazz at the cafe where we got dinner. The arena is promoting Cold Play, Maroon 5 and big groups that don’t come to Virginia Beach so there must be a lot people hiding somewhere.

After the seemingly obligatory flight delays and jet lag, I meet up with Patrick & Daniel in time for a walk through China Town, past Lombard Street (crookedest street in the world) and dinner at Fisherman’s Wharf. I expected tourist-quality food at the Boudin Sour Dough Bread Bakery & Restaurant but was pleasantly surprised to enjoy delicious mac & cheese with lots of crab meat and excellent food all around the table. The view is kind of creepy looking into the San Francisco Bay and seeing Alcatraz. The prison is closed now but I can imagine the misery of the inmates (including Al Capone and the Birdman of Alcatraz) so close to freedom yet separated by the currents, cold water and armed guards.Early Sunday morning (7/3) we set out to explore the bay area. First stop, rent bicycles! The bike lanes are terrific and make it easy to navigate past the cable cars and through the city. Riding along the coast we passed through or near the financial district, Embarcadero, Fisherman’s Wharf, Ghiradelli Square, the marina district with the million dollar homes, Fort Mason, the Presidio, the Palace for Fine Arts, Crissy Air Field, then the entrance to the world’s most famous bridge! Built in 1937, the bridge seems huge and solid. The wind was fierce and the sides were so close but, wow, what an exhilarating experience!A downhill ride into Sausalito makes you feel like you’re entering a different world of peace and harmony, sunshine and love. I still feel the presence of the hippies by the fountain from the first time I saw it back in the late 60’s. The real estate is so expensive now that it seems only the wealthy can afford to live here but the town was beaming with happy people and puppies out for the day.Among the things I love about Sausalito is the amazing view of the San Francisco skyline, both by day and night. We caught the ferry then rode our bikes back to the rental shop. That’s about as much fun as you can have for $35/per person which includes the $10 ferry ride. Not quite 24 hours since I arrived in California, I kissed Patrick goodbye as he left for L A then Daniel and I drove back across the Golden Gate Bridge, into Marin County, past the famous Frank Lloyd Wright Civic Center and up to Sonoma for the night.

Who knew there was such beauty and peace in a place perhaps best known for inventing a salad dressing? They say there are 1,864 islands in this archipelago. Two-thirds of the islands are claimed by Ontario, Canada with the other third belonging to New York, USA. There’s  a modest standard to qualify as an island — the land must support at least two trees and have at least one foot square above water level year round. Navigating among the islands is tricky due to the many shallow areas and shoals. Yet, you can look across to the deeper part and see giant freight ships passing through.

The three days I spent on Shady Nook, a 0.9 acre artists’ retreat complete with twin kilns, wasn’t nearly enough.

Warm days and cool nights were perfect for both swimming and sleeping.  Sipping coffee on the deck every morning, I watched fish swim by, looking up to see a frequent great blue heron or osprey. Although I saw squirrels and a chipmunk, the emphasis was definitely on life in and above the water and not the land.

An outing to the Antique Boat Museum is definitely worth the time. Seeing the beautiful skiffs with the pictures of their captains and passengers, complete with stylish hats and pearls, made me appreciate the history of the river. Nearby Heart Island is home to Boldt Castle that’s open for tours. Perhaps, next time I’ll visit the castle. This trip I was too busy; it’s hard to take away valuable time fish spotting and day-dreaming.Magical sunrises and sunsets every day, fishing, swimming, kayaking, and short trips into Alexandria Bay usurped my time. To be fair, most of my time was spent day-dreaming as it’s impossible to be stressed in this environment.