It’s So Miami!

IMG_0366.JPGMy weekend in Miami was full of sunshine, culture and ethnic diversity. Add in ease of access (inexpensive, direct flights between ORF-MIA) and warm friendship as soon as I landed. Essentially, it had all the elements of a perfect weekend.

Friday night we enjoyed delicious Thai food at one of the many, small restaurants on the newly-paved pedestrian street in Coral Gables, Miracle Mile (sounds like Chicago but that’s what they call it).  After dinner we attended the hugely entertaining musical comedy, “It Shoulda Been You” at Actors’ Playhouse in the Miracle Theater. I recommend this play to anyone wanting to sit back and laugh.

Saturday morning we were among the first to arrive at Vizcaya, the opulent estate built in the 1920’s by James Deering of the Deering Harvester (agriculture equipment) family. IMG_0308.jpgThe home itself is full of beautiful architectural detail, elegant furnishings and art while the patios and gardens are steamed in European design with heavy Italian influence; especially Venetian. IMG_0338.jpgAlthough we could have stayed all day, we left in time to fit in a stroll through the Wynnwood Art District famous for street art. IMG_0320.JPGI couldn’t choose a favorite mural because each design is original and wonderful in its own way.IMG_0352.JPGEven the sidewalks are covered in art and poetry.IMG_0335.jpgI have no idea how long the paintings last or when they might be changed but I’d hate to see some of these painted over.IMG_0327.JPGThe area appears to be an old warehouse district gentrified and filled with hipster cafes and galleries. We enjoyed it by day then returned after dark to see the street party complete with a DJ, dance floor and adult refreshments. Police had a heavy presence but everyone seemed chill. IMG_0330.jpgLeaving Wynnwood it was a short drive to South Beach. I was told that “el elemento” has changed. The high-fashion models and Rolls Royces were missing but it’s still full of interesting people and places. IMG_0344.JPG   Virtually every cafe, restaurant and bar had a sidewalk cafe with patrons watching the parade of characters pass by. We passed the seemingly requisite man with a boa constrictor around his neck and plenty of women with almost no clothes on. IMG_0346-2.JPG   The beach is wide and welcoming complete with the art deco lifeguard stands.   Versace Villa.JPG  The Versace Villa is now a hotel and younger people have never heard how Gianni Versace was shot on his door steps. Hard to believe that this summer marks 20 years since the high-profile murder and huge funeral. Espanola Way.JPG We went on a South Beach walking tour that ended a couple blocks off the beach on Espanola Way.  Smaller than the Lincoln Street pedestrian mall, Espanola has a quaint, old-Cuba feel. OK, I’ve never been to Cuba but this is what I imagine an Americanized version to be.

Sunday morning was prime time was brunch on Biscayne Bay. FullSizeRender-18.jpgThe rest of the day was filled with the Frost Museum (formerly the Miami Science Museum), the Perez Art Museum and Museum Park. IMG_0370.jpgThe Frost is new and really is state-of-the-art. Complete with an aquarium and planetarium, it’s multi-storied and inviting for all ages. The Perez (pictured below) is a contemporary art museum. IMG_0371.jpgThe Perez and Frost share a big park area that is my favorite type of architecture where indoors and outdoors are blended without sharp divides. I recommend going, even if only to enjoy the park and lounge in one of the many creative seating areas on beautiful Biscayne Bay. You’ll have your choice of hammock-swing-chairs, teak benches laid on stairs, and several other comfortable and fun arrangements among tropical vegetation. IMG_0367-2.JPG Overlooking the horrible traffic, lack of reasonable mass transportation and no bike lanes (more than a couple people blew their horns and/or shouted at me with total disregard of the “share the road” signs), everything I visited was within relatively close proximity. I actually had to approach several clerks at a department store to find one who spoke English. Miami is still part of Florida but with a unique vibe. Thus, their motto: “It’s so Miami!”

 

Vienna–Architecture

IMG_2038.JPGVienna is an explosion of beauty. Look in any direction, and you’ll see architectural grandeur in bold, Roman columns, Gothic arches and steeples, detailed frescoes, mosaics and baroque gilding. The styles span the last five centuries but the beautiful, light colored stone is a uniting element. IMG_2100.JPGUpon arriving in Vienna last Sunday morning, I was privileged to attend a mass at St. Augustine’s Cathedral. The beauty of the building, inside and out, was matched by the ceremony of the service complete with a magnificent organ and choir.IMG_1944.jpg

St. Andrew’s twin spires and mosaic roof create a reference point as they can frequently be seen towering over the city. I passed on the opportunity to go below the church to the Imperial Crypt but it’s a common tourist site that I hope to visit next time I’m in Vienna. IMG_1956.jpgFullSizeRender-13.jpgEvery building has a story. For example, in 1714 St. Charles Church (Karlskirche) was commissioned by Emperor Charles VI to honor the saint of plague sufferers at the end of the plague that killed more than 8,000 people. Building materials and funds to erect the cathedral were gathered from all over the Habsburg Empire—Sardinia, Italy, Hungary and more. It took two years to plan the church then twenty years to complete the construction. In each of the six side chapels there are paintings of Jesus, always wearing a red robe with a blue drape, healing the sick or performing miracles. It’s difficult to imagine how it could have been designed or built without computers, cranes, and modern tools yet it was constructed so well that it stands today. A picture of Karlskirche is below. FullSizeRender-14.jpg

Not to be overshadowed by Vienna’s large cathedrals, the outlying towns have very beautiful churches, also. The one pictured below is in Baden and I was fortunate to visit it on Palm Sunday. The statue out front is in memory of those lost in wars.IMG_2132.jpgAnother small town I visited, Eisenstadt, is the home of Haydn, and has two lovely churches, one of which houses his tomb. Many of the churches had music written for and originally performed during special masses by the great composers. IMG_2068.jpg

Looking down from the Vienna Woods on the edge of Baden gives a good view of the typical countryside where each village has one or two tall steeples indicating the churches. IMG_2127.JPGGovernment buildings, museums and performing arts halls in Vienna are almost as grand as the cathedrals. Trying to get a good picture of the State Opera House was almost impossible because it’s so large. In fact, all of my pictures pale in comparison to reality. IMG_2056.JPGWalking the streets you’ll notice mounted signs telling the history of a particular building generally including the date is was built, when it was renovated, and if anything important happened at that site such as an artist or a composer lived there. The dates remind me how young the United States is. It’s not uncommon to see buildings erected in the 14th century still in full use today. One former royal palace has been converted to residential condominiums. Ducking down side alleys and in through open doors to take a look can yield unexpected splendor. This stairway is in a commercial office building housing an auction business.IMG_2034.jpgAnd, the beauty is not found just by day. At night the same buildings take on a magical aura; especially, if you’re as lucky as I was to see them by a full moon.FullSizeRender-12.jpgThen there are the palaces. One of my favorite was the Schonbrunn Palace, the summer home of Maria Theresa, her husband, and their sixteen children, high on a hill with a compelling view of Vienna below. Painted in her characteristic deep yellow, it’s both elegant and grand. (Side Note: Never underestimate a woman! Emperor Charles VI died when his daughter, Maria Theresa, was 23. There being no sons, she was next in line to rule the House of Habsburg but she was not expected to retain control, given that she was a woman. The position made her the absolute sovereign of Austria, Hungary, Croatia, Bohemia, Transylvania, Mantua, Milan, Lodomeria and Galicia, the Austrian Netherlands and Parma. During her 40-year reign she earned respect and admiration, escorted in economic and education reform including school for girls, ended discrimination against Jews, and ruled with advice from wise counsel. She married off the 10 of her 16 children who reached adulthood, including Marie Antoinette, to positions that strengthened Austria’s standing giving her the nickname of Europe’s mother-in-law. Even after her sons reached adulthood and she was expected to cede to Francis and Joseph, she kept a strong hold on her position preferring to share power but not relinquish it thereby setting a succession plan in place.)IMG_1993.JPGGetting to the palace is an easy trip just outside the city and would be perfect for an afternoon picnic if the weather is nice. To be fair, it’s easy to get almost everywhere. The public transportation system of underground, streetcars, buses and trains is inexpensive, efficient and convenient. There are bike paths all over the city and some of the main streets are pedestrian-only.  Climbing the many steps to the highest point of the back lawn to enjoy the view and take this picture reminds me why it’s important to travel now while I have strong legs.

“I must study politics and war that my sons may have liberty to study mathematics and philosophy. My sons ought to study mathematics and philosophy, geography, natural history, naval architecture, navigation, commerce, and agriculture, in order to give their children a right to study painting, poetry, music, architecture, statuary, tapestry, and porcelain.” John Adams (1735 – 1826)

Vienna–Cuisine

IMG_2093.jpgI must admit that I had low expectations and was happily surprised to discover how wrong I was. Vienna has delicious and affordable local cuisine everywhere. Although I’ve been pescatarian (vegetarian who eats fish) for almost 15 years, I expanded my diet to sample the wiener schnitzel and wurst for which Austria is so famous. The mustard is especially tasty. IMG_2095.jpgIMG_2050.jpgI must have seen half a dozen signs claiming to having the “original” wiener schnitzel. This one was bought at a festival; cooked fresh as ordered and was quite delicious.

FullSizeRender-9.jpgMenus and markets are full of influence from nearby Germany, Greece, Hungary and France. I can’t tell you what I enjoyed most. Among my favorites are the breads, cheeses and wines. The breads are rich and hearty, full of flavor and seeds; nothing like a loaf of American bread that is tasteless carbohydrates in comparison. There were plenty of open markets and small stores selling fresh foods with pride. IMG_2110.JPGThe cheeses were so plentiful and readily available that I quickly lost count of what I was eating and resigned myself to savoring the taste. As good as the bread and cheese are, they’re greatly enhanced by a glass of local wine. Both the red and white wines are blends of local grapes from the vineyards that you pass whenever you go out of the city. The whites tend to be light and fruity while the reds are more full-bodied. Both are served in a small glass and are quite inexpensive by American standards (about $4 US). But, wait! You must save room for dessert! Vienna is best known for the Sachertorte but I passed on the dense chocolate cake in favor of the lighter apple strudel with vanilla sauce, crepe with plum filling or custard, and a huge variety of doughnuts and pastries served with delicious coffee. IMG_2125.jpgThe plums are a spring treat that you can get in a multiple of desserts.IMG_2124.jpgThe apple strudel is covered in a custard they refer to “vanilla sauce” and covered in powdered sugar. Yes, it’s as good as it looks.

IMG_2032.jpgAgain, I wasn’t expecting good coffee as I generally think of South/Central America or the Middle East for rich coffee but the melange (coffee with steamed milk) and espresso were perfect in the morning then again in the afternoon with a pastry. IMG_2062.JPGDaily afternoon tea time should be enjoyed at one of many coffee house for which Austria is well known. I was incredibly fortunate to have a travel companion who showed me the cool places with old pictures on the walls and many stories of times past such as Kleines Cafe and Hawelka Cafe. It was like stepping back in time. IMG_1961.jpgNot to be missed, the newer places such as the Imperial Hotel and the Hyatt have their own beauty and history. FullSizeRender-7.jpgThe lavish Hyatt is built in the old national mint, later used as a court for war crimes then as a bank.

Cafe Central has a statue of Peter Altenberg (Viennese poet/writer) at the front door. He spent so much time there, it’s said that he gave the cafe as his mailing address. Altenberg was part of the group known as “Young Vienna” along with Klimpt, Mahler (composer/conductor) and Adolph Loos (architect). Others who frequently joined them at the cafe include Freud, Stephan Zweig (one of the world’s most popular novelists in his day) and Leon Trotsky (Marxist revolutionary). I could just imagine what it was like back in 1910-1925 but even now it’s amazing. There was a pianist playing when I was there about 5:30 PM. My eyes kept looking up at the gorgeous ceiling.IMG_2102.jpg IMG_2108-2.jpg

It seems days were never long enough so dinner wasn’t early. Thankfully, restaurants were still welcoming at 9 or 9:30 PM. In every place, regardless of the size or price range, I enjoyed that impecable European service as only a professional server who takes his job seriously can offer. It seems a bit incongruent that we tip 20% in the States for mediocre service but only 10% in Europe for outstanding service. Even Austrian Airlines makes the American equivalent look bad when it comes to service, cleanliness and attitude.

Sampling the cuisine is part of the travel experience so I don’t regret the potential collateral damage to my waist. Actually, the delicious calories were offset by all the walking but even if they weren’t, it was worth it.

Post Script: 5/8/2017

Happily, I did not put on weight but after drinking for 8 days straight, I decided to take a month off.  Sipping wine was lovely while I was in Vienna but it seems good not to drink for a while.

“Wine is constant proof that God loves us and loves to see us happy.” Benjamin Franklin 

“Wine is bottled poetry.” Robert Louis Stevenson

Vienna, Austria–A Celebration of Fine Arts

April 9, 2017

This is my last night of eight in Vienna. I’m packed and ready to leave in the morning but I could definitely use another couple weeks in Austria. Every day has been unique and filled with culture, beautiful architecture, delicious cuisine, and history.

I visited cathedrals and museums every day but feel like I didn’t make a dent in what’s available. My knowledge of Austrian art previously was largely limited to Klimpt and his gold-accented portraits with an emphasis on stories of how the Nazis destroyed or stole the great art at the end of World War II.  What I saw here of both old and new art opened my eyes to a cultural depth that few countries can match. Below are a couple of famous Klimpt pictures that are in the Secession. IMG_2028.jpgIMG_2029.jpgThe Leopold and Belvedere Museums are worthy of more time than I could give them and I highly recommend both. Pictured below is the front of the Belvedere. If your time allows, it has a lovely cafe for lunch or afternoon tea and offers a majestic setting for a reprieve for tired feet.IMG_2026.JPG The Museum of Contemporary Art was a bit disappointing to me but that’s probably just my taste in art, or lack thereof. The Secession is not to be missed as the building with the gold leaf globe on top designed by the artists themselves and the work inside are all part of the beginning of what is commonly known as “art nouveau”.  IMG_2023.jpgOn the top floor is the Beethoven frieze that Gustav Klimpt painted in 1901 in honor of the famous Austrian composer for the 14th Secessionist Exhibition. The frieze tells the story of human desire for happiness in a world of external and internal evil forces then ends in happiness found in the arts, as at the end of Beethoven’s 9th Symphony when he incorporates the poem “Ode to Joy” by Schiller. IMG_2024.JPG

This takes us to the performing arts. Sadly, I didn’t get tickets to an opera but I attended the awesome Vienna Philharmonic Orchestra under the direction of Adom Fisher performing Mozart, Schubert and Bartok. IMG_2114.jpgThe beautiful Musikverein which is home to the Vienna Philharmonic takes your breath away. Our seats on the stage, just behind the percussion section, offered an amazing view of one of the most highly respected conductors and orchestras in the world. The list of famous Austrian composers is huge but it includes Mozart, Strauss, Schubert, Bruckner, Mahler and Haydn. I can think of no better place to hear this beautiful music than in its homeland. IMG_2117.jpg Vienna celebrates music at every turn. Here’s a statue in honor of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart (1756-1791). IMG_1991.jpg“A man should hear a little music, read a little poetry, and see a fine picture every day of his life, in order that worldly cares may not obliterate the sense of the beautiful which God has implanted in the human soul.”
Johann Wolfgang von Goethe (1749 – 1832)

Post Script 5/8/2017 When I returned home, I purchased a print of a small section of the Beethoven frieze and framed it for my bedroom.  While it isn’t gilded and doesn’t have the completeness or the grand scale of the original, I like it. IMG_0007.JPG

Elephant Sanctuary, Chiang Mai

IMG_0869.JPGWe opted for a half-day excursion to one of the elephant sanctuaries for $50 US per person that included transportation and lunch. The domesticated elephants have been purchased and registered with a microchip to protect the wild elephant population. The sanctuary is about an hour and a half from the city, in jungle and sparsely populated countryside. IMG_0843.JPGAfter an educational briefing, we fed the elephants bananas, sugar cane and grass. The bananas and sugar cane account for only 10% of their diet with the grass providing the balance. The night before, one of the elephants got into the banana storage bin and helped himself. No question, they loved the sweet apple bananas that we offered. IMG_0769.JPGWe could hand the bananas to the elephant’s trunk or put it directly in his/her mouth. We were instructed to hide the bananas behind our backs and hand over just one at a time but the elephants clearly knew where to look for more.IMG_0777.jpgIMG_0815.jpgAfter the snack, we went to a pond where we scrubbed mud on the elephants which is supposed to be healthy for their skin. They seemed to like it; some tilted their heads and looked us in the eye as if to ask us to continue. After the mud scrub, we walked down to the river for a bath in fresh, running water. IMG_0870-2.JPGBoth the elephants and we loved playing together in the cool water. We had to be a bit careful when they rolled over as their legs are heavy and could cause minor injuries.IMG_2185%20copy.jpgWhat a great way to spend our last day in Thailand! Time for showers and one last delicious meal then we began the long flights home.

As with all adventures, it will take a while for my thoughts to settle but I can say without any hesitation that this was a great family vacation full of all the things we value–cultural exchange, good food, history, religion, natural beauty, new geography, and time away from our daily routines to focus on each other.  So many days throughout the year seem to blur from one to another. The time I spend with my children sharing, exploring, laughing, and bonding gives me strength and joy that I carry with me always. When I think of 2016, these are the days I’ll remember.

The year is ending but the future is ours. I leave you with these thoughts …

“You don’t choose your family. They are God’s gift to you, as you are to them.” Desmond Tutu

“Ring out the false, ring in the true.” Alfred Lord Tennyson

“Write it on your heart that every day is the best day in the year.” Ralph Waldo Emerson

Chiang Mai, Thailand

Reaching the North was like breathing fresh air, both figuratively and literally. We took a two-hour flight from Phuket and arrived on the afternoon of Christmas. After checking in to an Airbnb, we walked about a kilometer to the old city.

IMG_0608.jpgThere was an open market set up and countless temples/monasteries in every direction. We paid a couple dollars for a ride back on a tuk-tuk, a three-wheeled motorcycle cab. These little tuk-tuks have replaced bicycle drawn rickshaws and are an easy alternative for a short distance ride. The little red trucks into which you jump in the back and sit on a bench are the most economical and easiest way to go more than a few blocks. We never paid more than 20 Thai Badt per person (about 55 cents).

IMG_0614.JPGMy dear friend, Nee, picked us up for a traditional Christmas dinner with some of her nephews. The young men were raised and educated in the United States or England but, it’s clear, they respect their Asian culture as evidenced by the fact that they all came home to spend time with their 95-year old grandmother when her health began failing. IMG_0620.JPGOur host is Pauranee Chaisiri (Nee), whom I met in college in the 70’s. Although a very humble person, her family is well known due to her father, General Lee, who left Yuan (south of China) during the communist revolution, formed an army, walked through Burma to northern Thailand and liberated the land from communist hold. (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Santikhiri) There is a monument to General Lee with his tomb that tells the history of his military victories and kindness to his soldiers.

IMG_0632.JPGNee now operates a restaurant on the site in Thom-Ngob where General Lee’s headquarters was and she lives in his old quarters when she’s in town. The restaurant serves delicious Yuanese-style food including puffy, rice buns and savory pork barbecue. The food is prepared by locals in giant pots on open fires in back of the dining area.

IMG_0886.PNGThis land was settled when her father purchased it (early 80’s) and gave small plots to approximately 600 soldiers and their families. Now many of Nee’s friends and employees are the soldiers’ children. He oversaw 36 villages but this area seems extra special since it was his headquarters and is on the highest elevation. The flat area at the compound was leveled by 100 soldiers with hand-shovels. Most all the rest of the land is steep with houses precariously balanced on the side of the road. The single road connecting villages is paved now but Nee remembers taking a six-hour ride on horseback to visit her father when she was younger.

IMG_0633.JPGAfter lunch we drove farther north to the Royal Projects, an area of agricultural experimentation, botanical gardens, orchards, camp sites, cabins and cafe. This is part of the product of government efforts to close down the golden triangle opium trade among Thailand, Burma/Myanmar and Laos by providing locals with alternative crops and income.

On our second full day, we fought traffic delays due to the royal family traveling in the area but, thanks to our local driver who knows back streets, we managed to stay on schedule. We had to be very careful when discussing the royal family. It seems the late king was well loved for his 70-year reign. The new king, now 64 and on his fourth marriage, does not share his father’s popularity, however, it’s an official crime to criticize the royal family.

No trip to Chiang Mai is complete without a short visit to its most significant temple, Doi Suthep.

IMG_3997-Edit.jpgLocated way up at the top of a hill, it offers panoramic views of the city below. We went up by van; passing those hiking or bicycling up did not make me jealous. The huge staircase leading to the temple has long, dragon banisters of bright yellow with green and red. At the top, there’s so much gold everywhere that it’s practically blinding.

IMG_0688.jpgNeeding to get out of the van and do something a bit more physical, we headed to what’s known as the Grand Canyon of Chiang Mai. I’m not sure if it started as a natural crater or is the result of mining but it’s quite impressive and provided several hours of cliff jumping & diving, swimming, and fun for the tiny entrance fee of 50 Thai     ($1.50 US)

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We finished our second day in Chiang Mai with a visit to the Night Safari where we saw lions, tigers, porcupines and a wide array of animals that are nocturnal. There’s a combination of shows, tram rides and walking circuits and we sampled all three. The shows weren’t trained animal tricks but rather just narrated displays of wild animals coming onto the stage area to grab food then return to their confinements. The exhibits were all very natural and well designed in the style of modern zoos. There weren’t many people walking so we felt like we had the park to ourselves. Plus, there were a fair number of animals and birds (rabbits, miniature horses, turtles, peacocks) just walking around in the dark which it made it very fun. This was one of the few activities that had an entrance fee (about $25 US) but the price was quite reasonable and the time was well spent.

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Most nights our evening activity was a delicious Thai dinner and family time. We never tired of the tasty curries and rice. Andrew thought the food could have been spicier and he suspected it was because he was clearly not a local. It was plenty spicy for me. Even the papaya salad had chili peppers in it.

IMG_0630.jpgWe often got take-out and relaxed at our Airbnb home playing games or watching a movie. Each morning we were up early to begin another day of exploration and good Thai food.

Phuket, Thailand

FullSizeRender-61.jpgPhuket is in the south of Thailand, on the Indian Ocean, near the border to Malaysia. It’s definitely a tourist area and has a strong reputation for providing anything the tourists will pay for. We’re staying in a house a few miles away from the strip so we walked down the street to a market in the morning to buy coffee and fruit. Patrick cut up a big plate of mangoes, pineapple and bananas for our heathy breakfast. The fruit is at peak freshness and the merchants helped us with our selection. They laughingly insisted that Pat switch out bananas he picked up in favor of another bunch that looked the same to us. I haven’t seen any of the long, skinny bananas that we buy back home. These are smaller and much more flavorful. I think they’re called apple bananas.IMG_0478.jpgFreshness is definitely the main consideration when you’re shopping on the street…Straight from the tree or boat to the market. IMG_0508.jpgThe electrical cables don’t seem to bother anyone except me but it looks so crazy seeing this big mess on virtually every street. IMG_0504.JPGAt the beach, we walked along the shops and saw the typical touristy items such as T-shirts, sunglasses and souvenirs. There are a lot of personal service businesses like massage, nails, tattoos and hair salons. IMG_1468.jpgDaniel and Patrick laughed and laughed at this foot massage provided by little fish. The exchange rate is 35 Thai Baht per $1 U.S. dollar so this 15-minute treatment cost $3 USD. IMG_0491.JPGThe views are so picturesque. And there’s no end to Thai food at very affordable prices (about $3 for a big plate of pad thai or curry with chicken).IMG_0527.jpgWe spent Christmas Eve on the water. The Indian Ocean has warm, clear, blue water–perfect for snorkeling, diving, swimming and fishing and that’s just what we did. Although most of us are licensed SCUBA divers, we opted for snorkeling which was a good call because the water was shallow enough to see everything without going deeper. IMG_0528-2.jpg The weather is so pleasant that we all got a bit more sun than we probably should have. Here’s a picture of Andrew, Patrick and Kristina jumping off the top of the boat into about 30 ft of water.IMG_0522.jpgWe trolled most of the time we were out and caught about a dozen tuna plus this big mahi that Kristina brought in. Our guides cut up some of the tuna and made delicious sashimi with soy wasabi sauce.IMG_0598.jpg To get from the parking area down to the end of the dock where the boats are, there’s a little shuttle trolley that holds about 20 people but more like 50 get on it each time. Here are all four kids crammed into the trolley.  Fortunately, it’s a short ride. Kind of funny how we stand out among the Asians who are smaller. There’s no way we could pass as locals but we could easily be thought Europeans until we start talking. IMG_0518.JPG

Bangkok, Thailand

After three fights totaling 22 hours, plus a 12-hour time difference, we reached our hotel at 2 AM. The west coast kids arrived about an hour after the east coast group. There was only time to get a few hours sleep then we walked out to the congested streets of Bangkok.  FullSizeRender-60.jpgFirst things first–delicious iced coffee for all five of us. It seemed so odd that we couldn’t find any cafe open until 10 AM so we used the time to walk around the streets and watch the merchants set up their wares including raw meats, aromatic cooking, fruits and vegetables. There’s something fun about sitting outside in shorts while it’s freezing back home in Virginia. IMG_0374.JPGI was aware of the recent passing of the king and the customary year of mourning but I was surprised to see the depth of the show of sympathy including black bunting draping walls and buildings, memorials set up all over the place, and black attire or ribbons on the locals. This memorial display is typical of what we saw at least once every block. IMG_0379.jpgWith just one day to spend in Bangkok, we opted for a two-hour boat ride on the river and up the canals.FullSizeRender-58.jpgThe water was filthy including floating dead goat but it was surrounded by life. The big floating markets are set up on weekends but we passed a few boats selling things. Children were swimming and busy households were cooking, washing, and making noise. We saw many of these large amphibians sunning on the banks — I think they’re monitors. They’re much bigger than an iguana and almost as large as an alligator.

IMG_0393.JPGIMG_0394.jpgGoing into and out of the side canals, we had to pass through a lock to adjust to the water level.IMG_0383.JPGBefore heading back to port, we stopped by one of the many temples and walked around. These gardeners are balanced on bamboo scaffolding as they trim ornate trees.

IMG_0404.jpgIMG_0414.jpgIMG_0412.JPGIMG_0416.jpgThese pictures were taken of smaller temples but some are huge compounds with multiple buildings and gardens. Temples are all over the city. We walked by the grand temple where the king’s body lays in state and saw  thousands of people dressed in black, lined up for blocks, to pay respect.  The memorial crowds add to the already grid-locked traffic. At one point, we got out of an Uber car and jumped on the train. It’s really the fastest and easiest way to get around the city.

Dinner was an experience in the extreme…a 10-course meal of fusion Thai cuisine that lasted almost 4 hours. Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin is located adjacent to a seven-story mall full of designer stores.IMG_0420.jpg

The time change and sleep deprivation amplified the surreal element of the experience. I feel like we’ve been going for days without end. Time to sleep. Tomorrow morning we fly south to Phuket.

Palm Springs & Desert Trip

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Heading back to Cali is always a good thing …

The impetus for this trip was the Palm Springs marriage of dear friends, both alumni of the Obama administration. The wedding and related events exceeded my high expectations. Everything from the unique attire (such as “cowboy casual” and “desert cocktail”), the various venues (second floor of a retro bar named Tonga Hut, a horse ranch, a chic, boutique hotel called the Avalon), three adorable, flower girls (no bridesmaids or groomsmen), to the couple’s signature drink (mai tais with little, cloth umbrellas and tiny, sipping straws were served at every gathering) made this three-day celebration of love and commitment memorable and most enjoyable.

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This was my first time in Palm Springs. Fortunately, there was time to explore the area beginning with a picture-perfect lunch at the Ritz Carlton on a hill overlooking the city with my two West Coast sons.

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Early the next day we headed out to Joshua Tree National Park, 800,000 acres in the Colorado and Mojave Deserts. The Joshua tree looks a bit like a giant cactus but it’s definitely a tree.

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The story goes that the tree was named by a group of Mormon settlers in the mid 19th century who thought the young tree with two spires looked like the biblical story of Joshua praising God with upraised arms.

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We hiked 2.6 miles (5.2 miles roundtrip) to the top of Ryan Mountain (5,500 ft elevation). The hike could be shorter, depending where you park, but we chose the longer route and I’m glad we did.

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Given the incline and the approximate 100 degree temperature, it was the perfect hike for a grand view of the harsh terrain scattered with giant rock formations.

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I’m told living in Palm Springs is far less expensive than any of the areas close to the ocean. I found it full of character and beauty. But, it’s still an oasis in the desert which seems to be both isolated and artificial. There’s definitely an effort to focus on renewable energy. I noticed a lot of solar panels which makes sense given the year-round exposure to the sun. And, the Palm Springs Windmills form a veritable forest of thousands of windmills providing electricity.

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This particular weekend, the city was full of people from all over the world who flew in to attend Desert Trip—three days of old-school rock featuring Bob Dylan, The Rolling Stones, Neil Young, Paul McCartney, The Who, and Roger Waters. Once the wedding festivities ended Saturday night, I drove to nearby Indio, in the Coachella Valley. As I walked in, old hippies were walking out but, undeterred by the time, I resolutely walked in and got to experience the last hour of Sir Paul McCartney. Fortunately, he brought back pitch-perfect Neil Young and special guest, Rihanna.

A couple very cool things about the timing of the show—on Friday morning, it was announced that Bob Dylan was awarded a Nobel Prize in Literature for his lyrics; he opened the show Friday night. And, while Neil Young was opening Saturday’s show, a full moon rose over the stage; of course, he played “Harvest Moon.” A music critic might say that some of the performers’ voices, including Paul’s, aren’t as strong as they were in the 60’s/70’s but it all sounded beautiful to me.

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Paul’s duets with Neil were hard rocking and huge fun—Neil held up his guitar with broken strings flying in the wind as the crowd cheered. Every song, every note, was like embracing an old friend but my favorite moment was when Paul paid tribute to his dear friend, George. It started out with a remembrance of George and him sitting around one afternoon playing “Something” (the new song George had just written) on ukeleles.  Although I never heard him introduced, that was definitely Dhani Harrison on guitar, George’s only child, who looks so much like his late father.

Sunday I went back for the full show. The Who opened as the setting sun painted the sky pink and yellow. They played most of their hits–Who are You, I Can See for Miles, Pinball Wizard, Behind Blue Eyes, Love, Reign O’er Me, See Me, Feel Me, Won’t Get Fooled Again.  There’s no question that Pete Townshend is a terrific performer and one of the best guitarists ever. His signature jumps and windmill strokes make him ageless. Roger Daltrey is still in great shape, both physically and vocally. The music, the people, the sunset, the kindness in the air created a flashback  moment that felt like it was the 70’s and I was 18.

The nearly-full moon rose over the stage with Roger Waters mesmerizing the crowd to classic Pink Floyd.

His staging was superior with state-of-the-art visuals that were insanely authentic and had everyone questioning what was real and what was imagery. Yes, there was a lot of politics thrown into the show but it didn’t bother me. Music is a way to communicate thoughts and emotions. I agree with some of it and I’m not threatened by ideas with which I don’t agree.

At the classic Coachella Festival, there are 5 stages with overlapping performances throughout the day and night for an audience of 150,000. At Desert Trip there’s one giant stage, two shows per night from 6:10 to about midnight, for an audience of 75,000. On the far right and left of the stage, boxes were built with elevator access and VIP rooms for high-rollers and celebrities. I met people from Brazil, Scotland, England and cool groups like multi-generational families and old buddies reunited. The same line-up was repeated for two successive, sold-out weekends (Oct. 8-16). Transportation, parking, shuttles, and Uber were easy and efficient. Everyone I spoke with including merchants, hotel operators, Uber drivers and ticket-holders agreed that the festival was a huge success in every regard. Here’s my favorite Uber Events Operator. Daniel and his team worked from about noon to 3:00 or 4:00 AM during the festival; approximately 100 hours each week. They didn’t get to see the shows and were extremely exhausted, but even they were all smiling.

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The refreshments and vendors were quite upscale with no excessive wait times and, while I never saw one law-enforcement person, I am aware of no altercations – only happiness, cooperation and pure joy.

No doubt Desert Trip 2017 is being planned now. I’m hoping it features Led Zeppelin, The Eagles, Jackson Browne, Crosby, Stills & Nash, and Stevie Wonder. So sorry that Linda Ronstadt can’t perform any longer. We’re losing so many of the great rockers. Just this year we’ve lost Glenn Frey, Prince and David Bowie. (Please forgive me if I’ve overlooked someone important. I write these blog posts contemporaneously which allows me to share my thoughts and feelings while they’re fresh but it eliminates reflection and thoughtful consideration.)

If you’re interested in getting tickets for Desert Trip 2017 when the show’s announced, contact me and we’ll plan a great adventure. In the words of Mick Jagger,

I know it’s only rock ‘n’ roll, but I like it!”

Hiking in the Blue Ridge Mountains

IMG_9400.JPGYesterday my daughter, Kristina, plus three friends and I hiked to McAfee Knob. Yes, she made me very nervous getting so close to the edge.

The McAfee Knob (8-mile roundtrip) trail near Salem, Virginia is part of the Appalachian Trail (AT). Elevation at the trail head is 2,000 ft. There’s a 1,578 ft increase over the 4-mile hike to the peak which makes for a moderate hike accessible to almost everyone. My legs and butt are a little sore today but not bad; which is good. The last mile and a half is steeper than the rest but you know you’re near the end when it starts getting more difficult.

IMG_9351.jpgThe weather was perfect–about 70 degrees. We were just a little early to see colored foliage but a few of the trees had orange leaves. We passed about a dozen rock climbers practicing their skills on the giant boulders as well as campers on their way down from spending the night wilderness camping (there is no proper campsite and access is strictly by foot).  Everyone had a smile on his/her face and a lot of the hikers wore VA Tech shirts and hats reminding me that Blacksburg is only about 30 miles away. How long it takes start to finish depends, in part, on how long you stay at the destination point taking pictures and soaking in the majestic views, but we spent about 4 1/2 hours total.

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We made a complete adventure out of the hike by adding a visit to Roanoke the night before. Dubbed the “Star City,” your first visit to Roanoke must include a drive up to the illuminated star that sits above the town like the “HOLLYWOOD” sign in Los Angeles.

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Then we finished our trip with lunch at The Homeplace Restaurant only a mile from the McAfee trailhead parking area. For about $14 per person, the food is served family-style and they keep bringing fried chicken, Virginia ham, mashed potatoes and all the fixings washed down with sweat tea until you ask them to stop.

State parks provide a wonderful setting for sharing thoughts, renewing your spirit, and connecting with the bigger world around you. Nature doesn’t care what age or gender you are. And, it definitely shows no prejudice or preference based on your faith, financial status or country of origin. In fact, nature is neither good nor bad–it just is. Which is perfect. Except for the food, everything we did was free. There are no state park fees in this part of the Blue Ridge Mountains.

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Wherever you are, I suspect you won’t have to go far to get away from traffic and back to nature. Sometime this autumn, I challenge you to get outside and take a hike!

“The mountains are calling and I must go.” John Muir

“Look deep into nature, and then you will understand everything better.”                 Albert Einstein