Valentine’s Day 2021–St. Croix USVI

Perhaps Newton’s Third Law explains it best. For every action there is an opposite and equal reaction. On Valentine’s Day 2020 the air was bubbling with love and optimism. Going in to Valentine’s Day 2021 is the opposite. Such are the inevitable ups and downs of life but I’m determined to make the most of the weekend.

Redeeming 20,000 frequent flyer points, I booked a roundtrip ticket to St. Croix, U.S. Virgin Islands. I left ORF about 6:30 AM and was beachside in time for lunch.

I’m spending the first two nights at a hipster, boutique hotel (adults only) on the west end of the island called The Fred (@sleepwithfred), short for Frederiksted. The USA bought the islands from Denmark in 1917 for $25,000,000; thus the Danish names. The whole concept of territories sounds a lot like taxation without representation to me. Not sure why we don’t either allow our territories to become independent or make them states like Alaska and Hawaii so, at least, they’ll get to vote. Having said that, there are many small and large advantages to traveling in the Caribbean while still being in the U.S. including the language, the dollar, electrical outlets, and the rule of law. Since it’s all U.S., there are no forms, no customs, and no passports required.

To find live music, I had to drive about 30 minutes on the left side of roads with serious potholes and no street lights to Christiansted. It would have been so much easier to stay in my room but I was determined to lift my spirits. Once I arrived, finding a parking space and making my way to the venue on the boardwalk was another adventure but it was worth the effort. A live band and lots of friendly people combined with random things like a school of tarpon that swims around the pier hoping for crumbs and a guy walking around with a Golden Retriever pup created a fun vibe.

Day Two starts with coffee, breakfast, and work via laptop by the ocean. Then a 40-minute drive to the north side the island for the top-rated hike. There’s very little traffic which I appreciate since driving on the left is a bit of a challenge. I have to really focus. Interestingly, the vehicles are from the U.S. and have steering wheels on the left which makes me wonder why the island still drives on the left. Jeep seems to be the preferred vehicle on the island which makes a lot of sense given the road conditions and the weather.

Signage is sparse but Verizon and iPhone maps work pretty well. To get to the Annaly Tide Pools, drive to the Renaissance St. Croix Carambola Beach Resort. Stop at the gate and the security guard will direct you to off-street parking and the short walk to the trail head. My iPhone maps sent me way up the mountain which was scenic but not the way to the trail.

I saw several mongoose, lots of lizards, a variety of birds, and dozens of hermit crabs along the walk through the rainforest. There were very few people hiking so I had the trail almost to myself. Once I got to the beach, there were several Jeeps that had brought people in to see the crystal clear, warm, tide pools but they were leaving as I arrived so I got to swim peacefully in the tide pools along with tropical fish and let the water rushing over the top of the rocks massage my shoulders. Heavenly! There’s a whole system of connecting tide pools but I didn’t explore past the first two.

The hike took about an hour each way and I stayed at the beach and tide pool another hour so it was a full afternoon. My protein bar and bottle of water sufficed but the romantic in me thought it would be a wonderful spot for a picnic and bottle of wine shared with the right person.

I returned to The Fred just in time to get a shower and dress for sunset, complete with a green flash, and dinner with friends.

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Day Three moved at island time. No hurry, no schedule. Coffee at a local cafe across from the beach,

sitting in a beach chair watching the ocean roll onto the shore then back out again,

driving from the west end to the north side, walking around Christiansted and stopping for lunch,

before checking in to the Buccaneer (@thebuccaneerstcroix). The resort is beautiful and my room has a large balcony with this amazing view.

Construction on the Buccaneer was first begun in 1653 and this choice property has been the home of many past dignitaries. It was converted from a castle/private estate to a hotel in 1947. Three beaches, three restaurants, tennis courts, a golf course, a spa & athletic center, two pools, and a dock are spread over more than 100 acres. I walk everywhere but there are golf carts and eager staff available. This is a view of the main building from the Grotto Beach. That was my favorite beach because it was always almost empty — so peaceful and quiet which is what I need most; sunshine, palm trees, and quiet time to think or to erase thoughts from my mind. There’s a tiki bar with a sweet, young woman offering cool drinks but I never saw more than 4 or 5 people on the entire beach. It seems people prefer the Mermaid Beach where there’s a cafe & bar, games, and is more central & more social. All the beaches that I’ve seen on the north side of the island have white sand and look like travel posters.

This is a view of the back of the main building and the dining hall where I have breakfast each morning overlooking the azure blue Caribbean.

After getting checked in and enjoying the beach for a while, I decided to brave the roads again to drive to the Palms at Pelican Cove for live music and a fire dance show. A couple from Utah plus Tim, a NYC public school teacher, let me sit in the empty chair at their table just proving once again that there are kind, interesting, fun people everywhere.

Everything I want to do is outside and naturally social distanced but there are still COVID restrictions and people seem respectful of them. I’ve been asked to show my negative COVID-19 test a couple times. There is temperature taking at the gate to the resort, hand-sanitizer and masks pretty much everywhere, restaurants/bars close at 9:00 PM; it’s similar protocol to back home. No dancing!

Valentine’s Day 2021

Sunday morning, up at 5:30 AM for the short drive to Point Udall, the easternmost point in the U. S. Territories, for sunrise.

Back at the resort, a light rain passed over leaving this beautiful rainbow.

Part of the day was spent roaming around the Buccaneer with love songs in my head. It’s a day when we celebrate love so it’s no surprise songs kept creeping into my mind — “You are So Beautiful to Me,” “Here, There, & Everywhere,” “The Look of Love,” “Is This Love,” “Something,” and so many more. Where better to lie back and listen to music in my ear buds than under a palm tree on a white sand beach? (Aside: The weather is miserable back home — ice, power outages, sleet & rain for days.)

It certainly helps to know locals! Michael and Liz invited me to brunch at the Deep End with Steve Katz on guitar … old friends, excellent music, good food, and gorgeous scenery. The good life!

It might be boring to some, but walking on the beach at sunset is my idea of the perfect ending to any day. And, the sunset was spectacular! The air is consistently about 82 degrees (27.8 C) mid-day and 70 (21 C) degrees at night; the water is 80 degrees (26.5 C), perfect for rushing up on my sandy feet. This is what I want to remember when I think of Valentine’s Day 2021. I want to remember the feel of the sand and water and the look of the sky in all it’s glory; an acute awareness that I’m but tiny spec in this big, beautiful, uncontrollable world.

Monday, February 15 begins with a peaceful drive to Point Udall and another beautiful sunrise.

There are a couple beaches and parks nearby so I walked a trail before heading back to the Buccaneer. Next trip I need to walk the entire trail to Jack & Isaac Bay because I hear it’s gorgeous at the beach.

I planned a half-day trip to Buck Island but the currents and winds were too strong so all boat trips including snorkeling and diving were canceled. No worry; the resort is so large, there were places I still hadn’t seen. I borrowed a snorkel and mask from the dive shop and stayed close to shore. The currents were, indeed, strong and I got slammed onto some coral with sea urchins while trying to gracefully get out of the water. My hands took the brunt of it and I’m a little concerned about splinter pieces of sea urchin but I did the best I could to remove them then applied some neosporin from my travel first-aid kit.

The Whistler Beach had no one at all on it.

This big iguana was just sunning on the boat dock. My version of the iguana’s pose was a frozen drink under the shade of a palm tree. So peaceful. It’s a struggle to get up to shower and dress for dinner. All too soon, another magical sunset appears and the day is over.

My room is very large and elegant with big French doors leading to the marble veranda. I sleep with the doors wide open so I can feel the breeze and hear the waves. Last night it started to rain which only added to the orchestra of natural sounds lulling me back to sleep. By morning, it was sunny again. This place really seems too good to be true. I feel rejuvenated already. Somehow, my sense of peace and wholeness is being restored with each passing sunset.

Last day–Tuesday, February 16 Michael and Liz surprised me with this very beautiful bracelet from Sonya’s where Liz works (https://www.sonyaltdstore.com). The Crucian hook is their special design. If you wear the bracelet with the hook pointed inward, it means your heart is taken. If it’s worn with the hook facing outward, it means you’re single. There are many original designs including one for each hurricane that hit St. Croix recently.

The flight home was easy and half-empty. No worry at all. I highly recommend St. Croix as a great option for a Caribbean getaway.

PS: First day back home I went to the doctor to get some of the sea urchin splinters out of my hands. It’s 36 degrees F and raining. Can I hold onto any of the sunshine I found in St. Croix?

“No borders, just horizons – only freedom.” – Amelia Earhart

“Looking hard into your eyes
There was nobody I’d ever known
Such an empty surprise to feel so alone
.” Jackson Browne

Charleston, Hilton Head Island and Kiawah Island, SC

Charleston, SC is the perfect get-away. It holds charm of days before technology –tree-lined streets, interesting architecture, historical importance, and some of the best cuisine in the country.

It’s been 7 months since my last trip. COVID-19 kept me inside all spring and socially isolated all summer. Now, it’s September and we’re still being careful to avoid dangerous situations but it’s time for a road trip; hand-sanitizer, mask and all. Charleston is an easy 7-hour drive from home (Virginia Beach, VA, USA) and I’ve never visited the SC barrier islands so it seems a worthy destination. Our plan was to spent two nights in Charleston, two nights in Hilton Head and two nights on Kiawah Island.

By 8:00 AM Saturday morning (9/12/2020) my girlfriend and I were in the car. By 9:00 AM we were out of Virginia and into North Carolina.

Even with a lunch break, we rolled in to Charleston about 3:30 PM. Our hotel, the Francis Marion, was in the historic area, convenient to walking everywhere, and our room overlooked this beautiful park and the waterfront.

We dropped our bags off and headed out for a stroll. By 5:00 PM we were ready for happy hour, Charleston-style, with steamed oysters and sangria at Pearlz, one of the many small cafes. I never saw mint julep on the menu but there were versions of mojitos that may have replaced the iconic Southern cocktail.

Time to walk back to our hotel, shower, and change for an elegant dinner at Circa 1886 at the Wentworth Mansion.

Dining in the gardens, we experienced perfect service with creative and delicious food for a night to remember. This was just one of many evenings reinforcing Charleston’s well-earned reputation for excellent cuisine blended with a certain Southern gentility. A list of “The 20 Best Restaurants in the USA” has 4 from Charleston including Circa 1886.
Here’s to the first day of our trip!

Day Two, Sunday–We walked about 12 miles up and down the beautiful streets of historic Charleston. The architecture with window boxes and second floor balconies give it a New Orleans aura.

Strolling along, peeking into courtyards, and exploring alleys was truly my favorite activity in Charleston. Our first destination of the day was the pineapple fountain in Waterfront Park.

The walk from the fountain down to the Battery is lined with giant oak trees and tends to transform those strolling back two hundred years in time.

It’s important to remember that life was not good for everyone back in the day. Charleston was a major port for slaves arriving from Africa. The lovely plantations and booming economy were created through the ownership and trade of human lives. And, while the business of slavery ended 157 years ago, its effects are still present. Arriving at White Point Gardens we saw a demonstration with Confederate flags. The racial division in America is very much an important social and political issue today.

Rainbow Row runs parallel to the water on East Bay Street and boasts 13 pastel-colored Georgian townhomes.

No trip to Charleston is complete without a walk through the market. We bought several small items custom greeting cards and fresh spices but my favorite was something I’ve wanted for many years — a beautiful print by Jonathan Green, nationally acclaimed artist from SC. On our walk back to the hotel, we decided to go through the beautiful Belmond Charleston Place hotel to admire the chandelier and flowers and to take some daytime pictures of the magnificent horse sculpture at the back entrance. Imagine my delight when I spotted Jonathan sitting in the lounge! Having had the opportunity to meet Jonathan previously, I hesitantly approached him to say “hello” and show him the print I had just bought. In characteristic fashion, Jonathan graciously greeted me, shared a happy memory of our dancing at our friends’ wedding, and posed for this picture. What a great artist, awesome humanitarian and generally, warm person; plus, a great dinner companion and dancer!

Time to shower and dress for brunch at the renowned Magnolias. Hands down, they serve the best fried green tomatoes I’ve ever tasted!

I don’t remember seeing a town with more churches. Each has its own style and some boast graves of famous people (John C. Calhoun, U.S. Senator and Vice President; Edward Rutledge, signer of the Declaration of Independence; Charles Pinckney, signer of the U. S. Constitution).

It’s hard to find a fitting end for such a great day but, after a couple failed attempts, we found a rooftop bar with a beautiful view of the sunset. I recommend a visit to the Vendue rooftop at sunset or after dark. When COVID-19 restrictions end and people are allowed to gather again it will be lively with music and laughter. For us it was peaceful and quite beautiful. From the rooftop, I took this picture of one of the many regal, church steeples just after sunset.

As if the day wasn’t full enough, we made one last stop at “Henry’s on the Market” where talented performers were offering a heavy dose of country interspersed with a little John Prine and folk music. Henry’s contends their rooftop lounge offers the best sunset view but that will have to wait for another trip to be tested.

Monday morning we drove out of Charleston headed for Hilton Head Island. A barrier island in Beaufort County, Hilton Head is 20 miles northeast of Savannah and 95 miles southwest of Charleston; about 12 miles long with one main road and offsets named for former plantations. Our hotel was on Shipyard in the southend of the island (about 800 acres with a Property Owners’ Association). It’s a 2 1/2 hour drive through scenic undeveloped, low-lying ground from Charleston. Hilton Head isn’t cheap but there are many hotels so the rates are quite reasonable. We stayed at the Sonesta Resort which is right on the beach for about $185/night.

First stop, lunch by the pool. My sweet friend and travel companion brought us frozen drinks to set the mood.

Riding bikes on the beach and down the many paved paths offers a fun way to get some exercise while staying outside and seeing more of the island.

After a lazy day by the pool and beach, we enjoyed a very delicious dinner served by Linda, the owner of Alfred’s, a fine dining restaurant hidden in the back of an unassuming shopping strip. We’ve been really fortunate to find outdoor dining. Everywhere we go we find small business owners creating virus-safe options and they seem to appreciate their customers as much as we appreciate their efforts to stay open in difficult times.

Tuesday was spent off the beach visiting several of the nature reserves.

We took a picnic to enjoy at the Coastal Discovery Museum. There were very few people there with many acres to enjoy. The butterflies and hanging moss add such beauty to the wetlands. Supposedly, there are alligators all around, and I don’t doubt it, but we didn’t see any.

The Pinckney Island National Wildlife Refuge is pure nature with some information posts but no museum or other features. Like everywhere, it’s all flat and is perfect for a long hike or a bike ride.

No visit to Hilton Head would be complete without stopping by one or more golf course. My travel companion golfs so I got to enjoy the clubhouse and beautiful landscaping while she hit a bucket of balls.

While traveling it’s always great to talk with locals. We were fortunate that my travel companion knows someone in the area who joined us for another lovely dinner–this time at Ela’s On the Water which sits on a marina.

There’s no question that Hilton Head is a destination for the wealthy. There are signs of money all around. For example, the yachts at the marina were much bigger than what I’m used to seeing in Virginia Beach.

Wednesday morning–We’ve been so fortunate to have good weather in spite of Hurricane Sally coming up from Alabama. We took some time for one more bicycle ride before leaving Hilton Head Island. Perhaps we were pushing our luck because we got soaked on the ride back to the hotel. Next stop, Kiawah Island, another of the SC barrier islands. Named after the first inhabitants, the island has been occupied by Native Indians, pirates, plantation owners & enslaved people, lumberman, Kuwaiti investors, and now super wealthy islanders. The homes are amazing! It really makes you wonder where so much money comes from. Even the landscaping along the road leading to the Sanctuary and out to the Ryder Cup Grill by the Oceans Course 18th hole is gorgeous. Thanks to all those who suggested we go for dinner there.

The Ocean Course offers 10 seaside holes, more than any course in the Northern Hemisphere. Home of a former Ryder Cup tournament, it will host the PGA Championship in 2021 for the second time.

Sitting outside by the 18th hole with a clear view of the ocean made the Atlantic and Ryder Cup restaurants my favorite, but I’m glad we went to the Sanctuary for dinner in their fine dining Ocean Room one evening.

This was one of the very few times we dined inside but I didn’t feel at high risk for COVID-19 germs. Temperatures were taken, masks were worn by all wait-staff and patrons unless they were seated. Generally, as much precaution as possible was taken everywhere we went.

As they say, all good things must come to an end. Back home, I hung my treasured, new artwork that will serve as a reminder of South Carolina.

“Once you have travelled, the voyage never ends, but is played out over and over again in the quietest chambers. The mind can never break off from the journey.” Pat Conroy (American author who lived in the SC barrier islands)

“It’s a matter of common knowledge that the government of South Carolina is under domination of a small ring of cunning, conniving men.” Strom Thurmond (U.S. Senator from SC for 48 years from 1924-1964)

Cartagena and the Rosario Islands, Colombia!

IMG_0705.jpgDon’t let safety concerns stop you from experiencing the explosion of colors, music, culture, and cuisine in Cartagena!

Very affordable by US standards, the prices for rooms and meals are about half what I’d expect to pay back home in Virginia Beach. It’s easy to get an AirBnB apartment for about $35/night. Walking the streets of the old city was an absolute joy for my eyes and soul (appreciated even more when it was snowing back home).IMG_0629.jpg Four nights of our 8-day stay were spent inside the walls of this historic area. IMG_0512.jpgIt was easy to fly from Virginia; ORF direct to MIA then Miami direct to Cartagena. And, there’s no time difference so no jet lag. Just make sure to factor in the hour + that it takes to clear immigration upon return to Miami. (Note: Global Entry is worth it.) Also, the electrical outlets are the same as US so I didn’t need an adapter.IMG_0628.jpgBy early afternoon on the first day we were at one of countless boutique hotels, Casa Quero in the San Diego district. The entire old city can be walked and I pretty much walked it every day and night. I never felt unsafe. I don’t recall seeing any police but locals told me the old city is virtually crime-free. Funny, but it’s also pet-free. No animals are allowed. IMG_0481.jpg Every morning we were served a delicious breakfast of fruit, pastries, Colombian coffee, fresh-squeezed juices, and bright yellow eggs. IMG_0653.jpgFollow that with a walk on the old wall and you’ve got the start to a wonderful day. IMG_0519.jpgWe made reservations for dinner occasionally but, mostly, we preferred to walk around and stumble into cafes with live music. “Champeta” is a fun style of dance music with electric guitar, bass, conga drums, and vocals that originated in Cartagena in the 70’s. It’s perfect for the Caribbean-party atmosphere. IMG_0639.jpgAnd there is a vivid Cuban influence in the music, food, and cigar sales.IMG_0648.jpgSeveral evenings we walked to “Cafe del Mar” for sunset-viewing. The cafe is situated right on the old wall at its western-most point and is open from 4:30 PM to 1:00 AM daily. It features contemporary, live music and is packed with both locals and tourists creating a festive atmosphere. Arrive early if you want a seat and don’t be shy to ask if you can join others at table that has empty seats. We met a lovely couple from Brazil that way. IMG_0734.jpgOne of our favorite restaurants, “Mardeleva”, had a Cuban band 7 nights a week. Most all restaurants serve fresh fish and ceviche. Being a pescatarian was no problem. IMG_0611.jpgPerhaps, the most celebrated Colombian author is Gabriel Garcia Marquez who wrote “A Hundred Years of Solitude.” One entire wall of the “Mardeleva” was covered in the novel. IMG_0472.jpgThe weather was consistently low-90’s in the day and mid-70’s at night–perfect in my book. The mornings were still but a strong breeze began everyday about noon and continued after midnight.

There are so many beautiful cathedrals and plazas. Generally, they were surrounded by a church, cafes and small shops; singers, dancers, and other entertainers came out after dark.IMG_0599.jpgAnd so many gorgeous doors.IMG_0753.jpgIMG_0759.jpgGoing inside the churches is always free.IMG_0591.jpgI saw a lot of bridal parties including a couple riding in a horse-driven carriage and a big group from the US. IMG_0735.jpgSculptures are common in the plazas. This sculpture by renowned Colombian artist/sculptor, Fernando Botero, is in Plaza San de Santo Domingo. His signature style depicts people and animals in exaggerated size. IMG_0594.jpgLeaving Cartagena temporarily, we took an hour and a half boat ride to the Rosario Islands. Many people go to the islands for a day trip to enjoy the white sand beaches, azure blue water, and diving/snorkeling but we opted for a two-day stay at Las Islas, an upscale eco-lodge with treehouses.IMG_0569.jpgThe treehouse architects/engineers created a masterpiece that is beautiful, functional and very fun.IMG_0570.jpgEach treehouse features a private shower and jacuzzi, air conditioning, wifi, and all the luxuries you might want. The most impressive part was the tranquility created by the merging of nature and structure, a constant breeze, an amazing view, complete privacy, and the sound of the waves all day and night. IMG_0539.jpgThe resort includes a private island that’s about a 5-minute boat ride away plus three restaurants, each with its own character. Breakfast is on this pier, IMG_0567.jpglunch is at a beach cafe on the sand, and dinner is at a very elegant restaurant up on a hill.IMG_0558.jpgAll the construction materials blend with the natural environment.IMG_0548.jpgAnd the dramatic lighting adds to the atmosphere. So many of the buildings have walls but no roofs or vice-versa, roofs but no walls, so that it’s questionable whether you’re sitting inside or outside. IMG_0563.jpgMy grilled lobster with coconut rice cost about $30 US. IMG_0566.jpgBack in Cartagena, we spent the next two nights at the Hotel Santa Clara (Sofitel). It’s definitely one of the nicest hotels I’ve ever stayed at. IMG_0651 2.jpgBuilt on the site of an old convent, the walls of the former structure are still standing. Every evening at sunset three monks in long, brown robes with hoods covering their faces walk through the lobby and pool area ringing bells. IMG_0607.jpgThe last two nights of the trip were spent at Hotel Monaguillo de Getsemani. It’s technically right outside the old city but many years ago it was inside before part of the wall fell apart. Our small hotel was just two blocks from the old wall at the clock tour and cost about $105 per night which included a big breakfast. When you enter the Getsemani area, you notice that it’s less gentrified and less affluent than inside the historic area.IMG_0673.jpgIt’s full of hostels, street art, and a young, lively vibe. At night backpackers hang out in the streets and eat from the food stands. IMG_0744.jpgThere’s a popular dance spot called “Havana” that has a live band and dancing every night. Although it was the only place I saw that charged a cover, there was a line down the block waiting to get in. IMG_0746.jpgAfter a long day of walking and site-seeing in 90 degree weather, we passed on the dancing and opted for dinner at “La Casa Della Pasta” where a delicious pasta dinner and a glass of red wine cost about $9 per person total. The tab always includes tax and a 10% tip. The 10% tip is technically voluntary but it’s easy and no additional tip is expected. I actually liked it better than the US system of adding whatever you think is appropriate.IMG_0736.jpgThe street art is terrific!IMG_0687.jpgIMG_0702.jpgI saw at 4 or 5 artists working on pieces that seemed far too beautiful to have been done largely with spray paint on bumpy, old walls but they came alive over the course of the two days. IMG_0682.jpgIMG_0703.jpgThis gorgeous painting was on the wall of one of my favorite cafes, “El Cabildo.” I loved the delicious frozen drink called “mango limonada” that is available with or without amber rum. IMG_0727.jpgJust outside of town sits a huge fort called Castillo de San Felipe. A cab ride from the old city to the castillo is just $3 US. Construction of the fort was started in the sixteenth century then fortified over many years to withstand sieges from the British, French, and other invaders.IMG_0666.jpgWay up on a hill just outside of town is a former convent (Convento de la Popa; the cloister and chapel of Nuestra Señora de la Candelaria de la Popa) which dates back to 1607. IMG_0718.jpgThe view of Cartagena from the top of the hill is worth the trip, plus the chapel and grounds are very nice. IMG_0717.jpgAt night the convent is lit up in purple and can easily be seen from the old city. I took this picture of La Popa in the distance from a rooftop bar on a warm, breezy night. IMG_0385.jpgWhat I don’t have are pictures of the beautiful women. There’s definitely something uniquely attractive about Colombian women–their style, shape, coloring, all come together in such a lovely way; think of Shakira.

This was my first time in Colombia but, with any luck, I’ll return before long. Until then, I’ll savor the memories of the beautiful people and places of Cartagena. And, I’ll smile when I think of warm nights on rooftops.IMG_0383.jpg

“People are not depressed in Colombia the same way people are in America.” Shakira

“Like all great travelers, I have seen more than I remember and remember more than I have seen.” Benjamin Disraeli

“If you think adventure is dangerous, try routine, it’s lethal.” Paul Coelho

Reflections on Morocco

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I’ve been home for over a week and yet the deep vibes of Morocco resonate through my mind. I believe Morocco is defined by more than geography; it’s a state-of-mind. Some of my strongest memories are captured here in photos …

  • Afternoon tea–whether in the desert, at a riad or five-star hotel, or at a rooftop cafe as in this picture taken in Jamaa Lana Square in Marrakech. It’s just so civilized to slow down, breathe in atmosphere, and savor the precious moments of companionship with a loved one. The certain knowledge that there are snake charmers in the square below enhances the contrast and the calm. IMG_8734.jpg
  • Evenings of delicious Moroccan cuisine and exotic dancing. When the clay chimney tops were removed from the tangine cookers in front of us, we knew a delicious meal would follow. I’ve tried making some of these dishes with the spices we brought back but it’s going to take a lot more practice before I can come close to the delicate flavors we enjoyed daily all over the country. IMG_8756.jpgOn our last night, Daniel opted for a watermelon-flavored hookah pipe.IMG_8780.jpg
  • Cultural and intellectual exchange through countless conversations with locals and other travelers from all over the world. Granted, you get this regardless of where you travel but that makes it no less wonderful. IMG_8747.jpg
  • The colors, especially the blues. I don’t recall ever hearing the expression “Majorelle blue” before but now it evokes images of mosaic tiles, buildings, fabrics, and leathers. IMG_8596.jpg
  • And, the Sahara Desert. From silent sunrises casting shadows over sand dunes to the panoramic sky full of stars, the Sahara Desert is unquestionably a magical place. IMG_8381.jpgIt’s always great going somewhere new but, yes, I will likely return to Morocco. In a world of globalization and homogenization, Morocco retains its character. It’s affordable, safe, and so beautifully unique.

“Toto, I’ve got a feeling we’re not in Kansas anymore.” Dorothy, Wizard of Oz

“If the stars should appear one night in a thousand years, how would men believe and adore; and preserve for many generations the remembrance of the city of God which had been shown! But every night come out these envoys of beauty, and light the universe with their admonishing smile.” Ralph Waldo Emerson, Nature and Selected Essays  

Chefchaouen, Morocco–The Blue City

IMG_8653.jpgWow! I felt like I was walking in a dream all day as we strolled through the medina (old town) of Chefchaouen, commonly called the blue city or blue pearl. IMG_8646.jpgWe hired a driver for the 3-hour drive from Fez. It’s way up in the Rif Mountains and the drive is very scenic.  There are no vehicles allowed in the medina. Our driver dropped us off at the square then we rambled up and down alleys. To be honest, I was lost most of the day but happily so.IMG_8599 2.jpg Like most days, it started out chilly (50’s F) but I’m glad we arrived early because there were few people so it was easy to take pictures in lovely spots before a lot of tourists arrived.IMG_5432.jpg And there is no end to the photo-worthy spots! IMG_8633.jpgAt every turn the view seemed more beautiful than the one before. IMG_5431.jpgThe various shades of blue all blend together perfectly with just the right amount of white and accent colors.IMG_8635.jpgWe stopped for a delicious lunch of falafel, hummus and mint tea on a third-floor rooftop.IMG_8682.jpgAfter lunch I walked down to the ground level with the vast array of merchants and colorful products. While I would ordinarily find that charming, it hit me like a brick wall. I turned around and went back up to the rooftop restaurant with this peaceful view of Chefchaouen. IMG_8685.jpgAnd that’s where I stayed until time to return to Fez–looking at this view, listening to the call to worship, and absorbing the blue. Don’t think I stopped smiling for hours. IMG_5448.jpgTravel allows me to step into different worlds and experience new, wonderful things. I’ve been doing that all week. Even better, I’ve been doing it with my fine son. I’m a lucky girl, and I know it. 

“I’d like to dial it back 5% or 10% and try to have a vacation that’s not just e-mail with a view.” Elon Musk 

 

Marrakech, Sahara Desert, & Fez Morocco

IMG_8389.jpgThe songs make Morocco sound so inviting. It’s been on my short list of places I want to visit for quite a while. Finally, my son, Daniel, and I made a plan and here we are! As I write this, I’m at a cafe on a hill overlooking the medina (old town) of Fez. It’s the 29th of November and cold and wet at home but here it’s about 75 degrees and sunny. I can’t tell you how glad I am to be here rather than in Black Friday madness back home.

We flew into Marrakesh, the cultural capitol of Morocco, last week. It truly is a magical place, just like the song describes.

“Take the train from Casablanca going south. Blowing smoke rings from the corners of my mouth. Colored cottons hang in the air, charming cobras in the square, striped djellabas we can wear at home.” Crosby, Stills, Nash & Young, Marrakesh Express

The souq (market) is one of the largest I’ve ever seen. There are hundreds of merchants eager to haggle over the price for beautiful fabrics, pottery, metals, spices, and leathers. IMG_7977.jpgIMG_7978.jpgIMG_7944.jpgIMG_7946.jpg

Walking through the narrow alleys, making way for donkeys and scooters laden with packages, and taking in a multitude of aromas and sounds is my idea of entertainment of the highest level.IMG_7979.jpg

I was quite startled when I first spotted the snake charmers with cobras lying on the ground. Once I associated the flutes with the snakes, I was able to navigate around them at a more comfortable distance. View%20album%20%e2%80%9cRecents%e2%80%9d.png.jpg

A woman grabbed Daniel’s hand and started painting a henna tattoo on it. He didn’t want it but there was no real choice once she started. IMG_7971.jpgIMG_7975.jpg

As a former French colony, the French influence abounds. My favorite example of this is the Yves St. Laurent Museum and beautiful Majorelle Garden where Yves’ ashes are entombed. IMG_7922.jpgIMG_7919.jpg

While in Marrakech we stayed at one of many delightful riads (garden homes with the center open to the sky). From the outside it’s nothing more than an ordinary door in a narrow alley but inside it’s a warm mixture of comfort and culture.IMG_7935 2.jpg

There are more palaces than we have time to visit. Each is more beautiful than the one before with every inch of floor, walls, ceilings, and doors as its own work of art. IMG_8020.jpg

IMG_8011.jpgAfter a drive into the Atlas Mountains and an overnight stay in Skoura, the next few days were spent in the Sahara Desert. We signed up with a company called “Desert Luxury Tours” and opted for 2 nights glamping in canvas tents with comfortable beds, tables with linens, and all the comforts of home. But that’s not the good part. Life at the camp revolves around nature — sunrise viewing at 7:30 AM, sunset viewing at 6:30 PM, campfire after dinner, then star gazing at 10:00 PM. IMG_8513 2.jpgWhen the camp lights were turned off, the sky lit up like a planetarium! Then, as if on queue, a shooting star ignited and shot across the night sky! So many sand dunes everywhere called to Daniel to jump on a snowboard and head downhill. He said it was impossible to turn but also impossible to get hurt because the sand is so forgiving when you fall. IMG_8517.jpgOne morning we rode camels over unspoiled desert sand hills for an hour, enjoyed nuts & raisins and hot tea made over a small open fire, walked around a while then slowly made our way back to camp.IMG_8480 2.jpg

Later that afternoon, we drove to town to rent an ATV buggy and enjoy the dunes at a much faster speed. IMG_8495.jpg

The next day we drove about 7 hours to arrive at Fez, the spiritual city. It’s up in the Rif Mountains and moves at a slower pace than Marrakech. The medina and souq are both older and considerably smaller than at Marrakech.IMG_8525.jpgWherever you are, five times a day, the call to prayer over loud speakers reminds you that 99% of the Moroccan population is Muslim. The streets/alleys in the medina are ridiculously narrow and dark. I’m told it’s dangerous, even for the locals, to go out in the medina after dark. IMG_8523.jpg

The doors are so ornate they make the colored doors of Dublin seem plain. IMG_8520.jpgMany have a small door inside the larger door. The small door is used for people and the larger for horses and ceremonies. And many have two knockers–the smaller indicates a woman or father/husband/brother of the woman of the home is calling. The larger knocker lets the woman know that she should not open the door. IMG_8519.jpgThe doors to the mosques, mausoleums, and church schools are decorated to excess.IMG_8533.jpgIMG_8531.jpgI wasn’t allowed to go into the mosques and holy places but I could stand at the door and look in. IMG_8547.jpg

Fez boasts the world’s oldest and continually operating college–the University of Karueein, founded in 859 AD. Previously, it taught sciences and languages as most universities but today it is limited to Muslim studies. IMG_8549.jpgThe Blue Gate is the main entrance from the West. No cars or vehicles are allowed inside the medina. IMG_8554.jpgI get totally lost walking down the narrow streets but I noticed there are sections such as the spice street, the meat alley, and the fabric area. The beautiful fabrics are made from natural materials and natural dyes. The red dye in this picture is made with poppy flowers. IMG_8526.jpgThis man is weaving with a combination of wool, cotton and other natural fibers. Perhaps, it’s good that I have just a small backpack. Otherwise, I’d be tempted to buy way too much. IMG_8567.jpgThe tannery is the biggest trade in the Fez souq. I was told there are about a hundred families who have operated it for many generations, passing down the ancient methods and using only natural dyes. The animal skins are from camels, cows, goats and sheep. We held mint leaves to our noses to mask the animal odor. All animals are killed in the halal method of one quick strike with a super-sharp knife to minimize the pain to the animal. IMG_8563.jpgEvery dinner is delicious. The Moroccan spices (cumin, saffron, cayenne, cinnamon, turmeric, ginger, aniseed, and paprika) are so aromatic. Eating a vegetarian diet has not been difficult for me. Daniel enjoys the chicken and lamb.  IMG_7931.jpgDinner isn’t served until 7:30 PM or later. Live music and belly dancers generally show up at 10 PM.

“Now you say Morocco and that makes me smile. I haven’t seen Morocco in a long, long while.” Jackson Browne, Something Fine

 

Bermuda for Mother’s Day

IMG_5570.jpgMy mother (93), daughter (30) and I booked a Mother’s Day weekend in Bermuda. On approach to landing, my first impression was the many shades of blue – blue skies with puffy, white clouds fading into azure blue waters with white sand beaches.IMG_3637.jpg I truly don’t ever remember seeing water so clear and beautiful. The 21-mile long island is still under British rule and it’s a direct reflection of the UK; very different from nearby Caribbean islands. The airport is in St. George and our resort was at the extreme other end of the island. A 40-minute taxi ride at about $50 gave us a good overview of the architecture and landscape. We passed neat, well-maintained, pastel-colored homes and commercial buildings. Even the gardens had a British feel to them. There’s no question that this is a desirable location for wealthy people. It’s just a two-hour flight from NYC. We were told that Michael Douglas has a home here (his mother was a native of Bermuda) and former-NYC Mayor Bloomberg also has a home here. Our taxi driver told us it’s illegal to take pictures of others, whether famous or not, since it’s considered rude. Papparazzi are not allowed.

We stayed at the Pompano Beach Club which is a 50-year old resort of pink buildings built into the cliffs overlooking the Atlantic Ocean at the western-most point of the island. IMG_3768.jpgMeals were uniformly tasty, fresh, and pricey. Fresh fish, lobster and other seafood were prevalent. Birds flew in and out of the 30 ft tall restaurant and each evening we had a majestic view of the sunset. I was completely shocked one evening when, at the moment the sun disappeared below the horizon, I saw a green flash! Seriously! It was a shade darker than lime green and was explosive like fireworks.IMG_3750.jpgNever out of view of the ocean, every morning began with an excellent breakfast served by friendly staff. In fact, everyone we met on the island had such a positive, welcoming attitude. Either the locals understand the importance of tourism on their economy or they just have extremely nice personalities; perhaps, both. IMG_3814.jpgThe beach, sunshine, relaxation, and shared time were our main interests but we took advantage of the one rainy day to ride the local bus to Hamilton (about $4 per person). Front Street was lined with cafes and small shops selling vacation attire, souvenirs, and Cuban cigars. IMG_3816.jpgNothing’s cheap. It seemed like most things cost double or triple what they would at home. Shopping is easy because the American dollar is accepted as equal, dollar for dollar, to the Bermudian currency. And, of course, English is the native language.

Although there are plenty of tourists, there’s a prevailing sense of peace and calm with virtually no shouting, no chaos, no horns blowing, no sense of urgency, and very little noise. Mixing British decorum with island-time produces a very pleasant atmosphere.IMG_3767.jpgWe noticed that there were a lot of pregnant women among the tourists. Apparently, this is a top spot for a “babymoon” because it has no Zika virus scare from germ-carrying mosquitos. Everyone with whom we spoke was a repeat visitor with many people saying they’ve been coming once a year for decades. Golfing seems to be one of the big attractions. Supposedly, Tiger Woods played at the PGA golf course next to our resort.

Bermuda shorts is a real style here. I saw businessmen carrying brief cases and wearing suits with the pants legs cut off just above the knees. The black knee-socks and dress shoes seemed odd with shorts but it makes sense if you think of it as professional attire. IMG_5654.jpgAlas, all good things must come to an end. I won’t soon forget how easily and quickly I can be on the beaches of Bermuda complete with the crystal blue water, white sand, and magical sunsets.
IMG_3838.jpgThe weekend was marked with beauty–beautiful water, weather, people, and my beautiful mother and daughter. img_3761-1.jpg“All that I am, or hope to be, I owe to my angel mother.” Abraham Lincoln

“My parents elected me president of the family when I was 4. We actually had an election every year, and I always won. I’m an only child, and I could count on my mother’s vote.” Condoleezza Rice

“Shower the people you love with love.” James Taylor

USC to Santa Barbara

IMG_2979.jpgI was honored to accept an invitation to attend the University of Southern California (USC) Annual Real Estate Law and Business Forum as a guest of the USC Gould School of Law. My thought was to take in the conference and get ideas for the VA State Bar (VSB) annual real estate conferences. A side benefit was to meet the author of the text I use when teaching Real Estate Transactions at Regent University Law School. Happily, I experienced all of this and more.

The USC program in downtown LA offered so many excellent speakers and break-out sessions that it was difficult to choose which to attend. IMG_2973.jpgRick Caruso, billionaire, Chair of the USC Board of Trustees, Pepperdine Law alumus, and CEO/founder of Caruso, an American real estate development company, was the keynote speaker. IMG_2976.jpgListening to him talk about his experiences in mixed-use developments was fascinating. He highlighted the economic and aesthetic value of green space, trends in retail rentals, and trends in transportation that affect parking requirements. Some of the other important speakers addressed cannabis law sections, pro bono practice, 55+ housing trends, and commercially viable housing in high-dollar areas such as New York City. Virginia is well behind the curve in most of these areas but Northern Virginia is leading our state with the new Amazon complex. A fun fact is that the building plans had to be modified to remove all escalators because they aren’t dog-friendly.

With the work portion of the trip complete, I headed northward for the weekend with my three sons and one girlfriend. First stop, Pepperdine University to pick up Daniel. Situated on sprawling hills overlooking the Pacific Coast Highway and Pacific Ocean, no wonder Pepperdine is consistently voted one of the most beautiful campuses in the world. IMG_3001.jpgAll along our drive, the hills were full of brightly-colored wildflowers!IMG_3864.jpg I’m told they’re extra-abundant this year due to the wildfires that scorched the earth a few months earlier. IMG_3865.jpgNext stop, Santa Barbara! No surprise, but Santa Barbara is a very stylish city with the ocean on the West and mountains in the East. IMG_3010.jpg Honestly, it looks the way I expect a California town to look — full of beauty and money with lots of excellent restaurants and chic boutiques.  Santa Barbara appears to be the home of the beautiful people, much more than Los Angeles with its pollution, congestion, and homelessness.  IMG_3027.jpg The next day, we hopped around small towns in the Ynez Valley. Our time limitation only allowed us to stop at two of the many wineries.  I could have spent much longer here playing corn hole on the lawn and soaking up the natural beauty of the countryside.IMG_3841.jpgNext stop was the quaint town of Solvang. This is a funny, little town settled by Danish immigrants. It still holds much of the old culture. There were cafes and pastry shops galore but also a lot of other historic buildings. IMG_3038 copy 2.jpg

Heading back to LA for the night we hit a bit of the legendary traffic but nothing too horrible that a bit of patience couldn’t overcome. I caught an early morning flight out of LAX and was back at the office before anyone missed me. It’s never easy to say “goodbye” to loved ones but these short trips are terrific!

“Travel isn’t always pretty. It isn’t always comfortable. Sometimes it hurts, it even breaks your heart. But that’s okay. The journey changes you; it should change you. It leaves marks on your memory, on your consciousness, on your heart, and on your body. You take something with you. Hopefully, you leave something good behind.”  Anthony Bourdain

Bone Marrow Donation

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Words fall short of expressing the pride I feel in my amazing daughter. Touched by a video she saw, Kristina registered as a potential bone marrow donor years ago. She knew the odds were extremely low that she’d ever get a call. One in 40 are called for testing as a possible match. Only one in 300 are a match. And, even then, there are numerous, potentially disqualifying, small steps before getting to donation day. I registered about 20 years ago but have never been contacted.

https://bethematch.org/support-the-cause/donate-bone-marrow/join-the-marrow-registry/likelihood-you-will-donate/

I was honored to accompany my daughter to the closest bone marrow donation center, George Washington Hospital in Washington, DC. All expenses were covered  and we were treated very well. Due to the shots she was getting to increase her white blood cell count, she had flu-like symptoms for a few days before the donation and wasn’t feeling much like enjoying DC but we managed a pleasant dinner at Founding Farmers, one of our favorite restaurants, the night before the procedure (non-alcoholic drinks only).IMG_2749.jpg

Kristina was given limited information about the person in need of her bone marrow–only that it was a 58-year old woman with a rare form of blood cancer.  Advances in bone marrow harvesting allow for most to be through a peripheral extraction from blood. Surgery is still an option but not as common. At the completion of the six-hour process, while she was still in bed, a courier came into the hospital room, took the donation, and left. We were told that if the recipient is in the United States, the donation would be delivered within 24 hours and if she is out of the country, it would be received within 48 hours.

A little less than 48 hours later, Kristina received a phone call that the bone marrow had been received by a woman in Belgium. Because of privacy rules with the Belgium bone marrow donation system, there is no exchange of information such as names and phone numbers. Hopefully, Kristina will get an update in six-to-nine months with an update on the recipient’s health. Regardless, it was an important and generous thing to do. I thank God for such an amazing daughter who never thought twice when asked to make this important gift to a person she’ll never meet.

 

 

NYC in March

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Upon my arrival, Central Park looked so pretty, lightly covered in a layer of snow. Three days later, the snow was almost gone but the sky was blue and the warmer temperature felt like spring. Either way, you can’t beat a walk through the park. IMG_2503.jpg

My dear friend is spending six weeks in NY while her brilliant husband undergoes cancer treatment at the renowned Sloan Kettering Center. There are no words for the horrors they face daily. But, as my wise friend would say, “We’re making lemonade.” When she accepted my offer to come up for the weekend, I eagerly made a reservation. After a short flight,  I hopped on the NJ Transit train from Newark to Penn Station.IMG_2501.jpg And, from Penn Station I took a cab to Central Park. Voila! I was in NYC for a weekend of friendship, love, and diversion … good things in the midst of bad.IMG_2427.jpg

I stayed at the Park Lane Hotel on Central Park South at 5th Avenue and 59th Street, practically beside the Plaza Hotel and diagonal to the Sherry-Netherland and Pierre. The rates are more than affordable for this prime location and lovely hotel.

Saturday afternoon we walked to the theater district to see “Ain’t Too Bad,” the new show about the Temptations. IMG_2441.jpg

It will be interesting to see what the critics think when it premiers in a couple weeks. I’m no critic, but I really enjoyed it. IMG_2445.jpg

It’s like hanging with an old friend; 2.5 hours of Motown music with a bit of dialogue about the band and its members. IMG_2446.jpg

Every evening we had delicious dinners, all within easy walking distance. It’s hard to choose a favorite but Montebello on 56th Street was perfection.

IMG_2504.jpgThe picture above is Columbus Circle at 8th Avenue, a couple blocks from my hotel. It’s full of great places including the Museum of Arts & Design with a lovely restaurant (Robert) on the 5th floor and the Time Warner Center with some upscale shops and a jazz club. This picture is a small corner of Robert where I enjoyed Sunday brunch with live music. The design of the room is delightful and the view of the park is even better. The menu, food, and service were characteristically excellent as I expect in NYC. IMG_2457 2.jpg

Below is a picture of Dizzy’s, the jazz club on the 5th floor of the Time Warner Center. The Renee Rosnes Quartet was playing when I stopped by. You’ve got to love a female pianist on a Steinway. So smooth …IMG_2476.jpg

Walking the streets and stopping at interesting places is one of my favorite things to do. Galleries Bartoux had a lot of art that I would love to have at B-Flat (my home). IMG_2471 2.jpg

There were no price tags and I didn’t ask. Surely, the cliche applies, “If you have to ask, you can’t afford it”.IMG_2470.jpg

Before flying out on Monday, I went to the Whitney Museum of American Art. My ticket for the Warhol Exhibition was for 10:30 AM so I took the subway downtown about 9:00, joining the last of the rush hour travelers. IMG_2482.jpgWhen it’s a clear day, the view from the top floor cafe/patio of the Whitney is gorgeous. It’s a tiny spec in this picture but looking out on the Hudson, you can see the Statue of Liberty. IMG_2496.jpg

The Warhol Exhibition lived up to my high expectations. IMG_2487.jpg

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The Faces of Jackie Kennedy below is particularly moving. Warhol searched thousands of pictures to use in this screen print. The top picture was taken that fateful morning when the President and First Lady arrived in Dallas . The next photo was taken later the same day at Johnson’s swearing-in ceremony and the last was taken three days later at President Kennedy’s funeral.  

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Time was getting tight and I needed to get to the airport so I took the subway ($3) and train ($13) both of which avoid the congested streets and makes more sense than a cab or Uber ($90+). Plus, the subway has the extra benefit of providing random entertainment. IMG_2505.jpg

“Walking with a friend in the dark is better than walking alone in the light.” Helen Keller

“The true New Yorker secretly believes that people living anywhere else have to be, in some sense, kidding.”  John Updike

“We must never forget that art is not a form of propaganda; it is a form of truth.”            John F. Kennedy

“Creativity takes courage.” Henri Matisse