Cartagena and the Rosario Islands, Colombia!

Don’t let safety concerns stop you from experiencing the explosion of colors, music, culture, and cuisine in Cartagena!

Very affordable by US standards, the prices for rooms and meals are about half what I’d expect to pay back home in Virginia Beach. It’s easy to get an AirBnB apartment for about $35/night. Walking the streets of the old city was an absolute joy for my eyes and soul (appreciated even more when it was snowing back home). Four nights of our 8-day stay were spent inside the walls of this historic area. It was easy to fly from Virginia; ORF direct to MIA then Miami direct to Cartagena. And, there’s no time difference so no jet lag. Just make sure to factor in the hour + that it takes to clear immigration upon return to Miami. (Note: Global Entry is worth it.) Also, the electrical outlets are the same as US so I didn’t need an adapter.By early afternoon on the first day we were at one of countless boutique hotels, Casa Quero in the San Diego district. The entire old city can be walked and I pretty much walked it every day and night. I never felt unsafe. I don’t recall seeing any police but locals told me the old city is virtually crime-free. Funny, but it’s also pet-free. No animals are allowed. Every morning we were served a delicious breakfast of fruit, pastries, Colombian coffee, fresh-squeezed juices, and bright yellow eggs. Follow that with a walk on the old wall and you’ve got the start to a wonderful day. We made reservations for dinner occasionally but, mostly, we preferred to walk around and stumble into cafes with live music. “Champeta” is a fun style of dance music with electric guitar, bass, conga drums, and vocals that originated in Cartagena in the 70’s. It’s perfect for the Caribbean-party atmosphere. And there is a vivid Cuban influence in the music, food, and cigar sales.Several evenings we walked to “Cafe del Mar” for sunset-viewing. The cafe is situated right on the old wall at its western-most point and is open from 4:30 PM to 1:00 AM daily. It features contemporary, live music and is packed with both locals and tourists creating a festive atmosphere. Arrive early if you want a seat and don’t be shy to ask if you can join others at table that has empty seats. We met a lovely couple from Brazil that way. One of our favorite restaurants, “Mardeleva”, had a Cuban band 7 nights a week. Most all restaurants serve fresh fish and ceviche. Being a pescatarian was no problem. Perhaps, the most celebrated Colombian author is Gabriel Garcia Marquez who wrote “A Hundred Years of Solitude.” One entire wall of the “Mardeleva” was covered in the novel. The weather was consistently low-90’s in the day and mid-70’s at night–perfect in my book. The mornings were still but a strong breeze began everyday about noon and continued after midnight.

There are so many beautiful cathedrals and plazas. Generally, they were surrounded by a church, cafes and small shops; singers, dancers, and other entertainers came out after dark.And so many gorgeous doors.Going inside the churches is always free.I saw a lot of bridal parties including a couple riding in a horse-driven carriage and a big group from the US. Sculptures are common in the plazas. This sculpture by renowned Colombian artist/sculptor, Fernando Botero, is in Plaza San de Santo Domingo. His signature style depicts people and animals in exaggerated size. Leaving Cartagena temporarily, we took an hour and a half boat ride to the Rosario Islands. Many people go to the islands for a day trip to enjoy the white sand beaches, azure blue water, and diving/snorkeling but we opted for a two-day stay at Las Islas, an upscale eco-lodge with treehouses.The treehouse architects/engineers created a masterpiece that is beautiful, functional and very fun.Each treehouse features a private shower and jacuzzi, air conditioning, wifi, and all the luxuries you might want. The most impressive part was the tranquility created by the merging of nature and structure, a constant breeze, an amazing view, complete privacy, and the sound of the waves all day and night. The resort includes a private island that’s about a 5-minute boat ride away plus three restaurants, each with its own character. Breakfast is on this pier, lunch is at a beach cafe on the sand, and dinner is at a very elegant restaurant up on a hill.All the construction materials blend with the natural environment.And the dramatic lighting adds to the atmosphere. So many of the buildings have walls but no roofs or vice-versa, roofs but no walls, so that it’s questionable whether you’re sitting inside or outside. My grilled lobster with coconut rice cost about $30 US. Back in Cartagena, we spent the next two nights at the Hotel Santa Clara (Sofitel). It’s definitely one of the nicest hotels I’ve ever stayed at. Built on the site of an old convent, the walls of the former structure are still standing. Every evening at sunset three monks in long, brown robes with hoods covering their faces walk through the lobby and pool area ringing bells. The last two nights of the trip were spent at Hotel Monaguillo de Getsemani. It’s technically right outside the old city but many years ago it was inside before part of the wall fell apart. Our small hotel was just two blocks from the old wall at the clock tour and cost about $105 per night which included a big breakfast. When you enter the Getsemani area, you notice that it’s less gentrified and less affluent than inside the historic area.It’s full of hostels, street art, and a young, lively vibe. At night backpackers hang out in the streets and eat from the food stands. There’s a popular dance spot called “Havana” that has a live band and dancing every night. Although it was the only place I saw that charged a cover, there was a line down the block waiting to get in. After a long day of walking and site-seeing in 90 degree weather, we passed on the dancing and opted for dinner at “La Casa Della Pasta” where a delicious pasta dinner and a glass of red wine cost about $9 per person total. The tab always includes tax and a 10% tip. The 10% tip is technically voluntary but it’s easy and no additional tip is expected. I actually liked it better than the US system of adding whatever you think is appropriate.The street art is terrific!I saw at 4 or 5 artists working on pieces that seemed far too beautiful to have been done largely with spray paint on bumpy, old walls but they came alive over the course of the two days. This gorgeous painting was on the wall of one of my favorite cafes, “El Cabildo.” I loved the delicious frozen drink called “mango limonada” that is available with or without amber rum. Just outside of town sits a huge fort called Castillo de San Felipe. A cab ride from the old city to the castillo is just $3 US. Construction of the fort was started in the sixteenth century then fortified over many years to withstand sieges from the British, French, and other invaders.Way up on a hill just outside of town is a former convent (Convento de la Popa; the cloister and chapel of Nuestra Señora de la Candelaria de la Popa) which dates back to 1607. The view of Cartagena from the top of the hill is worth the trip, plus the chapel and grounds are very nice. At night the convent is lit up in purple and can easily be seen from the old city. I took this picture of La Popa in the distance from a rooftop bar on a warm, breezy night. What I don’t have are pictures of the beautiful women. There’s definitely something uniquely attractive about Colombian women–their style, shape, coloring, all come together in such a lovely way; think of Shakira.

This was my first time in Colombia but, with any luck, I’ll return before long. Until then, I’ll savor the memories of the beautiful people and places of Cartagena. And, I’ll smile when I think of warm nights on rooftops.

“People are not depressed in Colombia the same way people are in America.” Shakira

“Like all great travelers, I have seen more than I remember and remember more than I have seen.” Benjamin Disraeli

“If you think adventure is dangerous, try routine, it’s lethal.” Paul Coelho