As I walked up to and through Damascus Gate I was overcome by emotion. Jerusalem is one of the most sacred places for Christians, Jews and Muslims. Now that it is under Israeli control all people of every faith have access to the holy sites. Walking down Via Delorosa, the path that Jesus walked on the way to his crucifixion, was so powerful that I felt each step deep inside my soul. Being in the old city brings biblical history to life…like a massive Sunday School field trip.
This was my fourth visit to Jerusalem so I skipped some of the more popular places in favor of new experiences. Slipping through narrow alleys, we passed countless schools filled with Orthodox Jews studying the Torah. Then, thanks to our friend who lives in Jerusalem, we took a wonderful walk on rooftops that gave us a unique vantage of the shops and buildings below including the beautiful Dome of the Rock mosque built on the spot from which Muslims believe Mohamed ascended to heaven plus a myriad of churches with steeples marking sacred places such as the tomb where Jesus was laid.
Next, we went deep underground to tour the tunnels and foundation under the temple walls. The architectural feat alone is hugely impressive.
Regardless of when I visit, I stop at the Western Wall (aka the Wailing Wall). Built around 19 BC by Herod the Great as part of the second Jewish temple, the limestone walls encased the steep hill known as the Temple Mount. It stands 62 feet tall. Men and women are segregated to separate areas.
Praying for peace on earth seems to be more direct, somehow closer to God, when standing at the wall. Little pieces of paper with prayer requests are stuffed in the cracks.
The small alleys are filled with stands selling souvenirs to tourists. About 80% of the shops are owned by Arabs. Haggling over prices is standard. I’m not big on buying stuff but I was enticed by the shiny coins to pay $5 for the headband worn in the rooftop picture above.
It would be easy to spend a week in the old city of Jerusalem but my schedule limited me to a day and a half. It’s beautiful both by day and night. During the day the shops and people provide a busy, loud environment. At night the shops are closed and there are very few people around. For that reason, I prefer nighttime walks but most of the churches and many of the holy sites are closed after dark so you still need to endure crowds if you want to see it all.
Local police and Israeli soldiers are quite visible and never far away. I never felt threatened or endangered. Having said that, three days after I passed through Damascus Gate, at the same spot, a young Jordanian who had entered the country the day before and just prayed on the Temple Mount shouted “Allah Akbar” and attempted to stab police. He was quickly shot dead. Terrorist attacks of small and large scale are always a possibility.
The spiritual strength of Jerusalem reminds me that what my Israeli sister, Naomi, and I share is far greater than what makes us different. War based on differences in faith just makes no sense to me. While there is hope, worldwide it doesn’t seem that earth in 2016 is more civilized or advanced in regard to tolerance and respect for different religions than any time before. Still, I pray for peace on earth and try to do my part to show respect for people of all faiths.
“Pray for the peace of Jerusalem: they shall prosper that love thee.” Psalm 122:6
Kathryn Byler, blog 